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No Sweat
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Dihedrals East T 
No Sweat Arete T 

No Sweat Arete 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: optimal: spring to fall
Page Views: 2,022
Submitted By: Josh Kornish on Jul 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Steve gettin' er done. Remember finding about a ha...

Description 

Great for anyone learning the ropes of multipitching. No hanging Belays just good fun. You can set up a belay pretty much anywhere you would like.

Location 

roughly 45 minute approach. main trail, cross bridge, take left, 10 minutes later you will go right on the approach trail. Keep going until you see the gully, go half way up and there will be a great ledge with a fixed .5 C4 Great placements all the way through. I used my C4 #1s the most. Easy climb with solid belay stations. While it is possible to rap off in the gully I do not recommend that. . Rapping down route would be a convenient way to go if you do not mind leaving some webbing. Great rock quality some loose rock, helmets a must. There is a variation to the top of the spire that runs at 10c. There are many variations to this and some are very hard to protect due to the poor rock quality. There is an easy 5.5 on the very back with a fixed stake for rapping off.

GREAT SCENERY!!!
bring water

Protection 

Single Rack


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By Kohnstamm
Jan 25, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I thought a few more comments might be useful to add to the above post.

A very enjoyable route overall, especially towards the top.

After taking a left after the bridge, walk until a small rise in the trail where a tree has been cut out to mark the beginning to the approach trail.

At the base, it is very easy to go up the direct start. This is about a pitch of wandery, relatively low quality 5.8, and can be avoided by entering the main gully to the left of the arete before beginning, and ascending to the right to the base of the climb. As of 1/25/15, the fixed c4 is still at the base of the climb.

We almost climbed the arete in two pitches close to 60 meters, with a third pitch of about 10 feet to the prominent ledge. With a 70 meter rope, the route could be climbed in two pitches. Although the arete can be climbed several different ways, we chose to traverse climbers right after about 20 feet of climbing, and found it enjoyable. The second pitch in particular on the climbers right is excellent.

To descend, follow the trail to the east off of the ledge to gain a saddle, and descend this eastward on the trail.

Alpine draws very useful!
By Dlent
Jun 19, 2015

beautiful climb in a beautiful canyon
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