|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Season:||optimal: spring to fall|
|Submitted By:||Josh Kornish on Jul 15, 2011|
|Comments on No Sweat Arete||Add Comment|
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Jan 25, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I thought a few more comments might be useful to add to the above post.
A very enjoyable route overall, especially towards the top.
After taking a left after the bridge, walk until a small rise in the trail where a tree has been cut out to mark the beginning to the approach trail.
At the base, it is very easy to go up the direct start. This is about a pitch of wandery, relatively low quality 5.8, and can be avoided by entering the main gully to the left of the arete before beginning, and ascending to the right to the base of the climb. As of 1/25/15, the fixed c4 is still at the base of the climb.
We almost climbed the arete in two pitches close to 60 meters, with a third pitch of about 10 feet to the prominent ledge. With a 70 meter rope, the route could be climbed in two pitches. Although the arete can be climbed several different ways, we chose to traverse climbers right after about 20 feet of climbing, and found it enjoyable. The second pitch in particular on the climbers right is excellent.
To descend, follow the trail to the east off of the ledge to gain a saddle, and descend this eastward on the trail.
Alpine draws very useful!