No Stems No Seeds is the acute right leaning corner above Slipstream. It doesn't look hard but this climb takes all the wide skills you've got. Armbar, bridge, and stem you way up the blank dihedral and hope the few tiny micro nuts will keep you off the deck. About halfway up a pinscar takes some good small cams.
This climb was first free climbed with fixed pins. Early in this climb's history, pitons were removed or pulled out from falls. No one replaced the pins then, so consensus is to leave it clean. Now it is regarded as a runout test piece without ant them.
Tiny micro nuts, offset stoppers, cams.
From: Tahoma, California
Feb 3, 2013
Great climb, and I have never felt it to be runout. Never use old pitons unless nothing else is available, at least try to back them up.
I have done this climb many times, first time in about 1990, and it's not runout.
|By david s wilson|
Sep 2, 2013
Did this route yesterday and I'd say it is runout, however not in the harder area. You get a small cam and a tiny nut at the start for crux the entry moves, then it's about 15' of 10a ( would be a ledge fall ) to where you get a good small cam. The rest is well protected above. I thought the entry crux was probably only 10d using a chicken wing. Overall, very fun, heads up pitch.