No Solution 5.12a
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Kevin Bein (TR, 1976) Sebastian Schwertner (Lead, 1988). |
| Submitted By: | - - - on May 23, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Retribution, No Solution (in-between the cracks), ...
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Climb up the face between Nosedive and Retribution, pulling the roof right in the middle.
Location Right on the carriage road, in the Uberfall area. Right between Nosedive and Retribution, which are ~150 feet left of Horseman.
Protection TR from the bolt anchors shared with Nosedive and Retribution
By doze From: Denver, CO Apr 7, 2011 rating: 5.12a R
| I lead this route after continuous rehearsal in the fall of 2010. The route is actually quite leader-friendly despite its X rating in Williams guidebook. You don't have to place pro on either retribution or nosedive. Double ropes help. My gearlist: Green c3 - horizontal before the roof Red c3 + blue ballnut - below the roof Blue c3 - lip of the roof Green c3 - sloping pocket on the left in horizontal between two roofs Red c3 - smiling horizontal crack to the right (use double ropes) .3 c4 + .5 linkcam (.4 c4 or yellow/green alien offset should fit too) - in the rest horizontal before the final crux One thing to keep in mind placing pro under the roof: Gunks roofs form at fault lines where the rock is not so solid and gets very fragile after continuous rain. Even though it may look dry on the outside, it is little more than pebbles and sand glued with mud inside - an interesting discovery that cost my friend a broken rib. I would let it dry for a week after good rainstorm. |
By Mark Roth From: Boulder May 12, 2011
| Good job leading it. But I think there might be a mistake with your gear beta as there is no Blue C3? |
By doze From: Denver, CO Aug 3, 2011 rating: 5.12a R
| Mark: blue - is purple |
By Will Stat Nov 7, 2012
| C3s probably weren't around when the X consensus was reached. I'll still stick to tr though. |
By Simon Thompson From: New Paltz, NY Apr 29, 2013
| Awesome job leading this thing. |
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