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No Solution 

5.12a

   
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Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.12- [details]
FA: Kevin Bein (TR, 1976) Sebastian Schwertner (Lead, 1988).
Submitted By: - - - on May 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Retribution, No Solution (in-between the cracks), ...

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Description 

Climb up the face between Nosedive and Retribution, pulling the roof right in the middle.


Location 

Right on the carriage road, in the Uberfall area. Right between Nosedive and Retribution, which are ~150 feet left of Horseman.


Protection 

TR from the bolt anchors shared with Nosedive and Retribution



Comments on No Solution Add Comment
Show which comments
By doze
From: Denver, CO
Apr 7, 2011
rating: 5.12a R

I lead this route after continuous rehearsal in the fall of 2010.

The route is actually quite leader-friendly despite its X rating in Williams guidebook. You don't have to place pro on either retribution or nosedive. Double ropes help.

My gearlist:
Green c3 - horizontal before the roof
Red c3 + blue ballnut - below the roof
Blue c3 - lip of the roof
Green c3 - sloping pocket on the left in horizontal between two roofs
Red c3 - smiling horizontal crack to the right (use double ropes)
.3 c4 + .5 linkcam (.4 c4 or yellow/green alien offset should fit too) - in the rest horizontal before the final crux

One thing to keep in mind placing pro under the roof: Gunks roofs form at fault lines where the rock is not so solid and gets very fragile after continuous rain. Even though it may look dry on the outside, it is little more than pebbles and sand glued with mud inside - an interesting discovery that cost my friend a broken rib. I would let it dry for a week after good rainstorm.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
May 12, 2011

Good job leading it. But I think there might be a mistake with your gear beta as there is no Blue C3?

By doze
From: Denver, CO
Aug 3, 2011
rating: 5.12a R

Mark: blue - is purple

By Will Stat
Nov 7, 2012

C3s probably weren't around when the X consensus was reached. I'll still stick to tr though.

By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 29, 2013

Awesome job leading this thing.