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Lieback left through the large feature to a ledge. Consider backcleaning gear through this section, as one moves 10' or so right on the ledge. One could do an alternate, more direct start by climbing the beginning of Jugline. A very thin move or two leads to large holds (the taller you are, the easier). The protection is at the base of the ledge (Red Alien or equiv), a fall complicated by the pro through the lieback could be messy (PG, but not R).
A sequence of hand/thin finger jams leads through the roof. Easier and very pleasant jamming leads to the top, exit slightly left.
Descend to the climbers left.
Standard rack, 1 ea. #1, #2, #3 Camalots for anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Patagonia Pile Left
By C Miller
Nov 11, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The direct start via Jugline is IMO the best way to do this route.