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 ADVANCED
o. Chain Reaction Buttress
Routes Sorted
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Beautiful Loser  
Blind and Deaf  
Chain Reaction 
Deaf and Dumb 
Deaf and Dumb (variation 1) 
Nameless ArÍte 
No Self Control 
Wham, Jam, Thank You Cam 

No Self Control 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Warren Musselman and John Anderson, Oct 1981
Page Views: 599
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Aug 16, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: No Self Control goes straight up this corner.

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Description 

Follows a large corner, sometimes sharing it with a little trickling water or toxic foliage. Halfway up is a ledge with a tree, and it tops out through a notch, slightly to the right in a small overhang.


Location 

Far right/east side of Chain Reaction Buttress, starting from the belay trail.


Protection 

Standard rack. "Gear is easy and plentiful. Hexes work pretty well if you don't have many cams, but a strange #3 camalot makes exiting the roof feel better." [-Larry S]

No anchor/rap bolts over this route, though the bolts from neighboring routes can be borrowed if nobody else is on the east side of Chain Reaction Buttress.



Photos of No Self Control Slideshow Add Photo
Anna near the top of No Self Control.
BETA PHOTO: Anna near the top of No Self Control.
General shot of NSC's corner
BETA PHOTO: General shot of NSC's corner
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By Larry S
Nov 23, 2010

My very first lead. Gear is easy and plentiful. Hexes work pretty well if you don't have many cams, but a strange #3 camalot makes exiting the roof feel better.

By PaulOnTheWall
From: Whitehall, PA
Apr 18, 2012

This is a nice little warm up route for Phone Booth or Chain Reaction. Lots of room for variation. After you get about half way up, try the arete on the left or the south facing face on the right for a little more difficulty. Fun and easy for beginners. If you top rope this on a busy day, the belay area is very narrow so expect people to be passing through.