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The Bank
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No Future for the Timid 
No Rest For the Wicked 
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Unsorted Routes:

No Rest For the Wicked 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Richard Aschert and Dave Dangle
Page Views: 2,415
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001
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"No Rest For The Wicked" is an album by Ozzy Osbou...

Description 

A few jams and laybacks on a great shelf face climb at mid-left on Back to the Future wall (2nd major clean wall on N side of Bank). Easily climb up the initial ledge and follow the crack through three bolts and technical face moves to the fist overhang. Cop a rest before pulling the crux and continuing up this strenuous climb to the anchor. I found no holds at the anchors, and used the massive ring attached to said anchors to clip the chains. Anyone else find this also?

Per Bob-a: The lowering rings were not installed on the FA...the route when to top (adding a couple more moves), and you lowered from a tree.


Protection 

8 bolts to 2 bolt chain with massive lowering (grab?) ring.



Photos of No Rest For the Wicked Slideshow Add Photo
White Muscle making his MP debut on No Rest for the Wicked.
White Muscle making his MP debut on No Rest for th...
Staying focused on the hard moves before the break and hard crack moves above. February 2014.
Staying focused on the hard moves before the break...
Comments on No Rest For the Wicked Add Comment
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By Chris Archer
Jul 18, 2001

Definately a brilliant, three star route. Don't underestimate the moves down low if your under 5'10". An OK rest follows, if you're good at resting. I don't exactly recall the trick at the top but there are holds either below the rings or left of the rings that allow a clip without grabbing them.

By Chris Cavallaro
Nov 26, 2001

NAILERS! I did this climb this weekend, and got my top rope kicked off of it as a few Aid climbers/nailers wanted to 'use' this climb. They offered to clean the route for us, as we had anchors atop, but when I saw them busting out their aid gear, I decided to run up it to clean it for them (good thing, as they took 2 hours to go three bolts.) My frustration grew as they were banging in a beek in the pristine crack, and were then yanking on it to get it out. They banged in a piton of sorts as well further up. From what i saw, the beek they placed was right at a smooth lieback section, and probably did some damage to this awesome climb. My question is, is this cool? I know that only a few hundred yards away, there is an awesome trad crack (Ripped), and I don't understand why they couldn't use that? I know that is the way to learn (using bolt climbs for safety,) but should they be allowed to bang in pitons etc.??? Why not just do Clean Aid???

By richard magill
Oct 2, 2002

stellar

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 31, 2003

Concerning the nailing on a freed route, this is completely unacceptable! Pounding pitons is no different than chipping. Both destroy rock and should never be allowed. Speak up next time. Run these type of people off the crag and let them know that what they are doing is taking away from the rest of the community.

By Joe Collins
Nov 17, 2003

Holy Pump-o-Rama!!!This is a burly and awesome route. I could not, for the life of me, cop a decent rest on the break in the middle of the route (thus the name??). Fred's guide says that he got a no-hands here. Beta? Maybe moving way left to the undercling on "Suede Head"? I was able to clip the anchors by getting a right heel hook on the horn-thing, and palming a feature in the corner with my left hand.

As for the grade? Maybe if you could somehow a get a no-hands at the midpoint... but I'll just say that it's very, very hard for 12a.

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Jan 13, 2014

The majority of the bolts, plus anchors were updated with stainless ASCA hardware during the Shelf Anchor Replacement Weekend on Nov. 9, 2013.