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Walt on No Remorse.
An enjoyable jaunt up less-than-vertical limestone, using some big edges and jugs, a few small pockets, and chert-edged crimps here and there.
The start is mildly intimidating, even though there is a huge jug on which to start because the move to get to and clip the second bolt is a stretch and you're close to the ground. After standing up on the big, starting jug, continue up through some fun movement using sidepulls and balance. Near the middle of the route you'll wonder where the bigger holds went; fortunately, chert comes to the rescue.
The top is a bit of fun; going far left and then cutting back to the chains is probably easier than going straight up, but not as rewarding.
The left route on the face which is in front of the fixed-rope gully which is at the right side of Bingo Baby wall. Starts from a ledge on top of some lower-angled rock.
7 bolts, chain anchors.
Haggle & Lewis getting ready to start No Remorse. ...
No Remorse is on the left side of the crag, draws ...
Lewis scoping out the moves to make the second bol...
Lewis leading No Remorse.
Lewis enjoying the lead action on No Remorse.
Anchors for No Remorse. Hang your own draws on the...
BETA PHOTO: left carabiner wear on the anchors of No Remorse. ...
BETA PHOTO: Right carabiner wear on the anchors of No Remorse....
No Remorse is the route on the left.
|By Mark Lewis|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 30, 2012
This was a fun climb which seemed to change character about halfway up - almost like experiencing two completely different climbs in one! The bottom has large holds and solution pockets with good feet, then about halfway up those good holds quickly disappear, turning into thin chert crimpers, especially on the last 1/3 of the route and below the anchors.