|Penitente - Entrance Area
About 100 feet past Colors of Emotion, the trail passes close to an obvious orange wall with a large, black, water streak. This climb is the rightmost route on the wall. It has a bouldering start up a small overhang to two bolts on slab, then easy runout climbing to upper three bolts and more fun face climbing.
5 bolts + anchors.
Not regretting a thing....
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 7, 2003
This is a good intro to this area of the canyon. Don't let the gap in bolts scare you away...the climbing is easier where the bolts are not -- the route is fun, high quality, and still sharp because everyone skips it for Whipping Post, Forbidden Fruit, etc. -JMM
From: Golden, CO
Jun 28, 2010
I was surprised to see this listed as 2.5 stars. This is one of my new favorites at Penitente. Excellent movement and just as good as its neighbors. My only beef is the runout on the easier ground. You're not going to fall, but if a foot slipped or something random happens you'd deck from 30ft.... Kinda silly at a sport venue. Regardless, this is a great climb.
|By Glenn Schuler|
From: Monument, Co.
Jul 16, 2010
Monty's comments are spot on. Things have changed quite a bit since we first did the route. All I can do is give some old guy perspective on this thing - When we put this up we didn't know what a "sport venue" was. Seems comical now, but Whipping Post had 2 bolts at the time. (There is a funny story behind that.) We thought No Regret was over-bolted compared to its neighbor.
Anyhow, if you can make the first clip boulder problem - the rest of the route will be a non-issue.
From: Golden, CO
Jul 17, 2010
Thanks for the "old guy perspective", Glenn. Penitente must of been an amazing place to develop. I'd love to hear the story of Whipping Post.