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No Recess 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Luke Douglas, Tyler Phillips
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring and Fall
Page Views: 2,386
Submitted By: Luke Douglas on Nov 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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The FA of No Recess.

Description 

The crux is low on this route but by the time you are done climbing it you may have forgotten. One of my favorites on this cliff. Long Live Nirvana. I was obsessed by the idea of "Super Routes" (thank Sharma) when I did this route, a super route for mortals. TP and I did the FA with a lead rope and a tag line so we could both lead it.


Location 

This route lies just about the middle of the cliff and makes its way towards the tallest point. 2 ropes needed to get off! A 70 or 80 meter single rope will not get you down! There is the option of rappelling to the anchors at the top of Baked Bean Sandwich and then to the ground. See photo topo.


Protection 

20 bolts to a bolted anchors.
Belay from the top and rap to the top of Baked Bean Sandwich if you just have one 70m rope.



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By James Garrett
Nov 16, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is good climbing. I think if I had had some Jr. Camalots on my rack besides just the QDs, I probably would have placed them. In other words, don't expect Gregorio Martinez type bolt friendly clipping....especially at the bottom. All in all, it has great protection, though. I loved the movement and the length and going to the top of the crag (or at least pretty close to it where the rock remains surprisingly good). The rock is not perfect as in you can't blindly trust it, but the route and the climbing instills thinking and problem solving, which is just fine with me.

Be a heads up belayer as I grabbed a basketball size hold about mid height, which almost made me a widower. It came off fast and it was close, so it still has some cleaning up to do.

The trail is awesome. A heinous appearing steep slope with tons of great switchbacks and tag lines and landscaping....very pleasant. This route alone makes the approach worth it.
We used one rope BTW, and were able to easily connect with another rappel.

By zoso
Jul 3, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Well bolted. I was perfectly comfy without gear. Great route. Really quite clean now. Another 20 ascents will do it well. Thanks guys for the good fun. I know there was a buttload o'work with this wall.

By split161
Sep 21, 2010

thought this was a fun route, bolts protect well...

there is an option to lower from a hanging biner at about the 16th? bolt with a 70m rope...lowering from this spot will barely get you down with a 70m only!!

By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 10, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

At this point, this route is still a choss-pile; I pulled something off (up to basketball size) about every other bolt or so. On the other hand, it's nice to have a 'sport' route of this length with a bunch of mini-roofs; it serves as a warm up to Black Streak.

Also, it's easy to rap with a singe 70 to the anchors atop Baked Bean Sandwich.

By Gabriel Tallent
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 30, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree that the route is well-bolted. It certainly didn't feel run out, and I was also comfortable without gear. The length makes for a sustained and satisfying lead, though towards the anchors, rope drag started to catch up to me.

The consensus seems to be 5.10, but none of the moves felt like 5.10. I would agree with James Garrett above that the route lends itself to thinking and problem solving. I think that if you give yourself a moment to puzzle out the moves, most of the route probably goes a couple of grades easier than that. The only places where it felt 5.10 is where I made strenuous moves to avoid holds I felt were suspect.

As of August 2013, I wouldn't describe the route as a choss pile, but I did pull one (small) hold off, and I think other holds have the potential to come loose. After that, I climbed slowly and carefully, so the lead took longer than expected. I would have been much happier if my belayer had had a helmet and a gri gri.