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Routes in The Northeast Point
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Blackbeard's Revenge S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chicken of the Sea S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Devil Wears Flippers, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Holy Huecos Bat Wo-Man S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hot Tuna S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I Got 99 Turtles Cause A Shark Ate One S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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No Problem Mon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Point Break S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Porcupine Named Fluffy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Porpoise Christi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Renegade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shiver Me Timbers S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spermy the Whale S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Throwin' the Tortuga S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Walkin' The Plank S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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What's The Point? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Skip Harper |
| Page Views: | 1,475 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Skip Harper on May 26, 2010 |
| Admins: |
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Access Issue: Bird closures
Details
For route closures in Cayman Brac due to bird nests, see info here: climb.ky/2021/04/20/birds-a…
Description
A well-featured recreational route starting from a large ledge about 60 feet below the Bluff edge (#1 on topo). Begin up and right over a cruxy bulge and follow a sharp, exposed arete. Step across the well-protected dihedral corner onto the main headwall where the grade eases to the top anchors. Despite some sharp rock encountered along the way, the extreme exposure, lofty position and variety of moves garner a higher star rating.
Location
Find a cairn about 40 yards west of Shiver Me Timbers on the right (n) side along the Lighthouse Footpath. Head north towards the Bluff edge taking the path of least resistance and you will find a large white colored, east facing dihedral. The top anchors are right over the edge at this point and easily accessible from an area of stable footing backed by a large bush.
Side note: This part of the North Wall (Northeast Point) has come to be known as the No Problem Mon Area after this namesake climb. It is the location of a cluster of four highly varied climbs within the immediate area. While No Problem Mon begins on a prominent ledge considerably above water level, the other three climbs (Porpoise Christi, Walkin' the Plank and Blackbeard's Revenge) are typical of sea cliff routes and have bottom anchors further down nearer the waterline (NOTE: take appropriate precautions accordingly). These climbs are all re-bolted with titanium Tortugas and are shown on the topo as if one were looking at the Bluff wall from the sea.
Side note: This part of the North Wall (Northeast Point) has come to be known as the No Problem Mon Area after this namesake climb. It is the location of a cluster of four highly varied climbs within the immediate area. While No Problem Mon begins on a prominent ledge considerably above water level, the other three climbs (Porpoise Christi, Walkin' the Plank and Blackbeard's Revenge) are typical of sea cliff routes and have bottom anchors further down nearer the waterline (NOTE: take appropriate precautions accordingly). These climbs are all re-bolted with titanium Tortugas and are shown on the topo as if one were looking at the Bluff wall from the sea.
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