No Perch is Necessary
|257 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10c/d [details]|
|FA: ||Rich Perch, Vaino Kodas, Bob Yoho and Herb Laegar, Nov. 1987|
|Submitted By: ||Murf on Jan 1, 2002|
BETA PHOTO: No Perch is Necessary (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP.
Pull a technical mantle (easier if you are taller) and clip the first bolt. A spot is not out of the question before clipping the bolt. Slabby moves lead past the second bolt to the base of a thin crack. Off balance thin fingers lead up to and over a roof.
The route is most easily approached from the right. As you look at the rock from the pullout, the top of a dead tree is visible.The route begins in a pit right of the tree.
2 bolts, pro to 1.5", bolted anchor
This is the cord (tied as an ADT) we cut d...
|Comments on No Perch is Necessary
|By C Miller|
Nov 10, 2003
Short and engaging. All bolts are 3/8" and were replaced March 2000.
Apr 3, 2006
Actually, you clip 1st bolt before making the mantle (a balancy clip). Thin face past 2nd bolt leads to fun and easier crack -- thin gear for crack. Downclimb to right.
|By Charles I.|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 30, 2009
Cool climb and FULL value. You can clip before the mantle. Small wires useful for the upper crack. I managed to get two Blue TCU's in to protect the rest. I thought the cracks were quite tricky and consequently took a decent fall here. Yikes.
|By Nick Barczak|
May 23, 2010
I thought this was a really good climb. The two bolts protect the moves on the lower half perfectly. I thought the crux move was at the 2nd bolt. Bring micronuts and purple/blue mastercams for the crack. It is tricky, but patience will see you through.