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Jam or Slam Rock (NE Face)
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No Perch is Necessary T 
Usual Suspects, The T 

No Perch is Necessary 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rich Perch, Vaino Kodas, Bob Yoho and Herb Laegar, Nov. 1987
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Bomber! This is the cord (tied as an ADT) we cut d...

Description 

Pull a technical mantle (easier if you are taller) and clip the first bolt. A spot is not out of the question before clipping the bolt. Slabby moves lead past the second bolt to the base of a thin crack. Off balance thin fingers lead up to and over a roof.

The route is most easily approached from the right. As you look at the rock from the pullout, the top of a dead tree is visible.The route begins in a pit right of the tree.

Protection 

2 bolts, pro to 1.5", bolted anchor


Photos of No Perch is Necessary Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: No Perch is Necessary (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP.
BETA PHOTO: No Perch is Necessary (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP.

Comments on No Perch is Necessary Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Short and engaging. All bolts are 3/8" and were replaced March 2000.
By Randy
Apr 3, 2006
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Actually, you clip 1st bolt before making the mantle (a balancy clip). Thin face past 2nd bolt leads to fun and easier crack -- thin gear for crack. Downclimb to right.
By Charles I.
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Cool climb and FULL value. You can clip before the mantle. Small wires useful for the upper crack. I managed to get two Blue TCU's in to protect the rest. I thought the cracks were quite tricky and consequently took a decent fall here. Yikes.
By Nick Barczak
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I thought this was a really good climb. The two bolts protect the moves on the lower half perfectly. I thought the crux move was at the 2nd bolt. Bring micronuts and purple/blue mastercams for the crack. It is tricky, but patience will see you through.

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