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No Parking 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 492
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 19, 2007

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The route...

Description 

This route is a fun hidden gem that does not see a lot of traffic. If you are bored with climbing the same old routes, check this one out.

Scramble up a short pitch of 5.2-4 to a large belay ledge below the LF corner. Climb the overhanging corner with liebacks and stems. The lieback section is protected by a #4 BD micro nut, so make sure you have a good directional so that you don't zipper your gear in a fall. Place a blue alien at the lip, and crank to the easier climbing above.

Location 

The crux corner is the obvious LF corner high on the right side of the wall.

Protection 

Gear to 1 inch for the route, a #3 camalot is helpful for the anchor.

The two smallest ballnuts are useful for a directional at the start of the climb.


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