No Nuts 5.9
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Karl & Martin Seidenschmid ~ 5/08 |
| Submitted By: | Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009 |
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Description Climb right of tree, on porous rock, to large ledge. Pull through large dehidral, then traverse right onto face. Romp to top.
Location Starts right of mossy buttress, 20ft up & right from 'Small Nuts'.
Protection Bolts
By Ebb
From: Vancouver, WA
May 19, 2010
rating: 5.9
| Caution! Watch your rope length. The first time we climbed this, what we thought was a 60m rope didn't quite make it all the way to the ground when lowering on belay (but it was only a matter of a few feet). The belayer needed to take a couple steps up the start of the route to get the climber to the ground. More recently however, (climbing with a brand new 60m rope) we had at least 10 - 15 feet of rope left with both of us on the ground. |
By Toby B
Sep 10, 2010
rating: 5.9
| I'm not sure what time of year this is likely to be an issue, but be aware that there's a small trickle of water that runs right over the crux holds and slimes up the lichen/moss that's on them. This can make for a pretty heady lead, since you have to traverse right through these moves and will swing a bit if you slip off.
If memory serves you can see this sludge from the ground so I'd look for it before heading up. |
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