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(9) New School Wall
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Dad's Nuts 
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No Nuts 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Karl & Martin Seidenschmid ~ 5/08
Page Views: 876
Submitted By: Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009
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Climb right of tree, on porous rock, to large ledge. Pull through large dehidral, then traverse right onto face. Romp to top.


Starts right of mossy buttress, 20ft up & right from 'Small Nuts'.



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By Ebb
From: Vancouver, WA
May 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Caution! Watch your rope length. The first time we climbed this, what we thought was a 60m rope didn't quite make it all the way to the ground when lowering on belay (but it was only a matter of a few feet). The belayer needed to take a couple steps up the start of the route to get the climber to the ground. More recently however, (climbing with a brand new 60m rope) we had at least 10 - 15 feet of rope left with both of us on the ground.

By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Sep 10, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I'm not sure what time of year this is likely to be an issue, but be aware that there's a small trickle of water that runs right over the crux holds and slimes up the lichen/moss that's on them. This can make for a pretty heady lead, since you have to traverse right through these moves and will swing a bit if you slip off.

If memory serves you can see this sludge from the ground so I'd look for it before heading up.