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 ADVANCED
Mount Huntington
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Brother Laurence T 
no name T 
Once is Enough T 
Perennial T,S 
Southern Migration T 
unnamed T 

no name 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bradley White, Tom Bowker, Jay Golden?, mid 1980's
New Route: Yes
Season: summer-fall
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: bradley white on Jan 5, 2009

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Description 

This route is in much likeness to the Perennial Route, climbing at the same grade sequence on the same wall for the second half section of this cliff.
We started at the base of the slab right from Perennial's slab beginning the first time we went up. At the top of the tongue of slab on the right side I led the slab to pop out above the thick pine boughs beyond the exposure of being on the slab with the second also climbing. On later ascents, directly up right above the tongue is a sloping ledge accessible from the ground at (5.1) and we would belay here (no pro) so that the leader's rope length would reach the tree ledge. From the upper tree ledge move left to gain access height up the wall moving right and after a short distance gained, (possibly I did a belay here) there is access onto the head wall to do exposed guerrilla tactics (5-6+) zig-zag upwards to diagonal right upward to the finish up the right side (5-8) onto the top of a big block with a very big pine on top of it. The big pine tree belay is a prow with a great exposed ambiance view.
I first went to Mt Huntington in 1980. I don't recall who I did this lower half of the climb with. I've been to the ledge a dozen times, maybe more. I've gone to the ledge with 4-5 partners and the rest of the trips by myself. Consequently I climbed up a few and down climbed some other's without a rope and with partner's always a rope.


Protection 

trad rack. no pro for first two pitches.



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