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Supercrack Buttress
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Unsorted Routes:

No Name Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 4,501
Submitted By: Matt Pesce on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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The cruxes are 1/3 and 2/3 up the route at wide sp...

Description 

This fine big hands crack is located just left of Gemini (Twin ) cracks. A dark varnished corner begins with a short rectangular pillar. All sizes from hands to fists and maybe some Odub for small folks.


Protection 

A lot of #2 and #3 Camalot, two #4s, and 1 #1 Camalot at the top as a last placement. I loved this route.



Photos of No Name Crack Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Tony Bubb follows No Name crack, ~2001. Photo by Joseffa Meir(?)
Tony Bubb follows No Name crack, ~2001. Photo by J...
Greg K at the base of No Name Crack
Greg K at the base of No Name Crack
Comments on No Name Crack Add Comment
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By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Nov 25, 2001

This route is to the left of 3 am crack and also starts on a small pillar in a right-facing dihedral. It can be distinguished from 3 am by being a bit wider and lacking a roof. Another beauty of a climb.

By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 15, 2002

I liked this route even better than Incredible Hand Crack or 3AM Crack. Look for the no hands rest (which I missed) halfway up. It can be done with a 60 meter rope, barely, but be very careful--one or two downclimbing moves might be necessary. The smaller pillar at the start is loose, so pull gingerly!

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 21, 2005

i've heard not just a few people refer to this as the "4am crack" - its similar but slightly bigger than 3am, right facing corner, etc. - mayber better than yet another nameless crack at the creek -

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 17, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

This was one of my favorite climbs of our trip. I have big hands, so it was more of an "incredible hand crack" for me than was the real "Incredible Hand Crack."

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 6, 2008

Indistinguishable from 3am crack. They're the same!!

By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Dec 24, 2013

Sustained and clean...highly recommended