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DescriptionNo Name, a side canyon off of Glenwood Canyon, offers a number of single pitch granite cracks in an easy to access yet spectacular setting. A North-South running canyon, it is possible to chase the sun or shade by alternating between the east and west side of the canyon. Because of the availability of sunshine or shade, No Name is climbable spring, summer, and fall. No Name is comprised of the same Pre-Cambrian granite found in the center of Glenwood. The closest comparable rock is found in the Black Canyon. With a strong traditional ethic, No Name is a great place to begin trad leading or to hone your skills on its harder cracks. Layton Kor is said to have originally ascended many of the lines here. The only bolts to be found here are for top anchors. Some route information can be found in Dave Pegg's guide Western Sloper. Getting ThereNo Name Canyon can be accessed from the No Name exit off I-70 in Glenwood Canyon. It is the first exit east of Glenwood Springs. Once you turn off I-70, head north (away from the river) approximitely a half a mile until the road dead ends at the Jess Weaver trailhead. Park in the designated trailhead parking or on the road. Please don't block the parking for private homes. Walk up the trail (actually at this point the trail is a dirt road for utility access to Glenwood Spring's water supply) a little more than a quarter of a mile. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for No Name Canyon:
Second Dihedral 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet East Side
Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack) 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet East Side
Twin Cracks 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Poison Ivy Wall
Electric Butterfly 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet East Side
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet East Side
Kor Line (Garden Salad) 5.9- Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Poison Ivy Wall
Unnamed 5.9 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Jumbled Buttress
Sumac 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Poison Ivy Wall
Left Side of Gray Face 5.10b R Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet East Side
Thin Crack Variation 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet East Side
Lightning Bolt Crack 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Poison Ivy Wall
Lone Pine Tree Direct 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet East Side
The Pink Face 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet East Side
Featured Route For No Name Canyon
Lone Pine Tree Direct 5.10 CO : Glenwood Springs : ... : East Side
This route is on the face furthest left on the east side of No Name Creek. It is down and to the left of the Pink Face. It is the direct line up to a lone pine tree anchor (hence the inventive name) which is reached by an easy fifth class move off of the trail up to a spacious belay ledge. The splitter line straight up from the ledge has some great thin hand crack moves. Some insecure thin hands can make this route a challenge for gear placement; I wouldn't recommend ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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