No Name, a side canyon off of Glenwood Canyon, offers a number of single pitch granite cracks in an easy to access yet spectacular setting. A North-South running canyon, it is possible to chase the sun or shade by alternating between the east and west side of the canyon. Because of the availability of sunshine or shade, No Name is climbable spring, summer, and fall. No Name is comprised of the same Pre-Cambrian granite found in the center of Glenwood. The closest comparable rock is found in the Black Canyon. With a strong traditional ethic, No Name is a great place to begin trad leading or to hone your skills on its harder cracks. Layton Kor is said to have originally ascended many of the lines here. The only bolts to be found here are for top anchors. Some route information can be found in Dave Pegg's guide Western Sloper.
No Name Canyon can be accessed from the No Name exit off I-70 in Glenwood Canyon. It is the first exit east of Glenwood Springs. Once you turn off I-70, head north (away from the river) approximitely a half a mile until the road dead ends at the Jess Weaver trailhead. Park in the designated trailhead parking or on the road. Please don't block the parking for private homes. Walk up the trail (actually at this point the trail is a dirt road for utility access to Glenwood Spring's water supply) a little more than a quarter of a mile.
The east side climbs can be accessed directly off of the road before crossing No Name Creek. Cross the creek and walk back down canyon to access the west side climbs.
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for No Name Canyon:
This route is on the face furthest left on the east side of No Name Creek. It is down and to the left of the Pink Face. It is the direct line up to a lone pine tree anchor (hence the inventive name) which is reached by an easy fifth class move off of the trail up to a spacious belay ledge. The splitter line straight up from the ledge has some great thin hand crack moves. Some insecure thin hands can make this route a challenge for gear placement; I wouldn't recommend ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Generally yes. All the established routes can be done with a single rope. The option exists on the West Side to go "exploring" above the cragging routes. Most of this is low angle with a few worthwhile cracks. You may want a second rope for rappelling off trees and other various anchors. If you really want quality multi pitch routes that require two rope descents in the Glenwood area, head across the Colorado River between the Hanging Lake and Shoshone exits.
Just wanted to put the word out to expect somewhat of a nasty approach to the Jungle Book area once you step off the trail/access road. It is a very steep grade and consists of mostly dirt with few solid imbedded rocks for stable foot placement. The local guide makes no mention of this. Awesome rock to climb on and throw some gear into, if you survive the approach!
Brosky, It is possible to toprope many of the crags at No Name, some easily done and some not-so-easily. The new guide attempts to give some basic directions for doing so. The Jungle Book area, Lone Tree Wall and Beginners Slab are all reasonably easy to get to with some basic to moderate scrambling.
Thanks, Tyler. I hope Lost Dog sees more action before it gets dirty again. Even then, it should be easy to brush up while hanging on the bolts if need be. I would love to do more routes here at some point. These days I simply lack the time, money and drill.
I've spied a couple of lines that might be worth climbing. Maybe not though.... Like that splitter line you see on your right side as you walk the flat spot on the road up. The shallow dihedral that is probly over 100' long terminating on a pedestal 2/3 of the way up the Sawatch sandstone wall. Scoped it out one day and it looks like it would take lots of big cams, more than I have for sure. Spotted another dihedral in the buttress up canyon from that one kinda the gully between them really (both of these options would probly be full blown adventure routes complete with lots of choss). There is a granite buttress that sits below these that could be cleaned and turned into a mixed crag. We should get a crew together to develop some new routes.