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Alien Wall
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Alien T 
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No More Aliens T 

No More Aliens 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: arjunmh on Nov 25, 2011

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Arjun above the vertical crack that gets you clear...

Description 

Far left buttress of Alien Wall. Begin in the large gully at the left side and traverse the poor quality rock to access the wide, off-width left-angling and overhanging crack about 25 ft up. Pull committing moves into the crack to easier ground, leaving the crack for a short stretch of bulging face to large horizontal crack above poor rock. Traverse right to access vertical hand crack leading to easier ground. Done ground up once and then repeated and cleaned further.

Needs still more cleaning, but the death blocks are gone -- go for it and clean, or wait until we clean this route up more! Note that the upper part to the anchors passes to the right of much loose rock on easy climbing.


Location 

Far left of this upper wall, on the far left of the main gulley feature.


Protection 

FA done ground up on trad gear, double rack of 0.3 to 3 inch cams, with single 4 inch for the lower off-width. If you place a lot of gear you'll want triples of 0.5, 0.75 and 1 inch cams.



Photos of No More Aliens Slideshow Add Photo
AMH after clearing the upper bulge.
AMH after clearing the upper bulge.
Roman going through the upper bulge. Rope is just right of Aliens. Hanna is on upper part of Cowboys and Aliens.
Roman going through the upper bulge. Rope is just ...
DAS eying the approach to get to the off-width straight above his head.
DAS eying the approach to get to the off-width str...
Comments on No More Aliens Add Comment
Show which comments
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 19, 2011

Excellent and exciting route, but very rough around the edges still. Stout moves getting established into the OW.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 23, 2011

Cleaned the "death blocks", cleared the cracks of detritus, got the top free of loose debris. Only thing left to fully clean is the somewhat loose footholds used to establish into the off-width. But, we've now climbed this several times and it's shaping up nicely. A very fun route that will be heady for a strong leader.