Far left buttress of Alien Wall. Begin in the large gully at the left side and traverse the poor quality rock to access the wide, off-width left-angling and overhanging crack about 25 ft up. Pull committing moves into the crack to easier ground, leaving the crack for a short stretch of bulging face to large horizontal crack above poor rock. Traverse right to access vertical hand crack leading to easier ground. Done ground up once and then repeated and cleaned further.
Needs still more cleaning, but the death blocks are gone -- go for it and clean, or wait until we clean this route up more! Note that the upper part to the anchors passes to the right of much loose rock on easy climbing.
Far left of this upper wall, on the far left of the main gulley feature.
FA done ground up on trad gear, double rack of 0.3 to 3 inch cams, with single 4 inch for the lower off-width. If you place a lot of gear you'll want triples of 0.5, 0.75 and 1 inch cams.
AMH after clearing the upper bulge.
Roman going through the upper bulge. Rope is just ...
DAS eying the approach to get to the off-width str...
|Comments on No More Aliens
|By roman d|
From: Pasadena, CA
Dec 19, 2011
Excellent and exciting route, but very rough around the edges still. Stout moves getting established into the OW.
From: Phoenix, AZ
Dec 23, 2011
Cleaned the "death blocks", cleared the cracks of detritus, got the top free of loose debris. Only thing left to fully clean is the somewhat loose footholds used to establish into the off-width. But, we've now climbed this several times and it's shaping up nicely. A very fun route that will be heady for a strong leader.