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Third Buttress
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No Mo' Jo' 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, 6/2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 477
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Third Buttress
1. Standard Route (7+)
2. West Face...
  • Reopened after rockfall MORE INFO >>>
  • Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Start from the water pipe on the 3rd Elephant Buttress. The triangular roof 20' up in the center has an 8+ running out one side and a 10a running out the other. A reasonable hand-crack runs between the two, cutting a diagonal line between the lip of the two roofs, on either side of the dihedral. Instead of traversing left or right through either side of the roof, play a new way and jam the sideways handrack- moving out into an thin seam in the middle of the lip of the roof. Do not chicken out and go to the sides. After pulling the roof (crux, 5.11?) make a bee-line up cracks and edges for the left hand side of the enormous roof above. A few easy 5.10 moves go past this roof and take you to a large ledge above. From there, join another route.

    The route is difficult, involving very powerful moves. On the first ascent I pulled 3 ribs off of my sternum doing the crux move. My partner did not attempt follow the route.


    Protection 

    The protection is reasonable, requiring a standard rack. The crux is pulling through and above a roof with a sideways crack (2.5" cam) somewhat below it and a large brass nut above. You will find it difficult to place the nut though, and the cam is at your knees for the crux.



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