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 ADVANCED
Chadbourne Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beam and Coke S 
Benson bolts  S 
Clam, The S 
Feature Attraction S 
Gray Boy S 
Half Cab S 
Inconthievable S 
Little Buddy S 
No Man's Land S 
Piston Bully S 
Point Man S 
Slice of Pie S 
Tenacious Z S 
Vagrant Circle S 

No Man's Land 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Scott Lazar, 1996
Page Views: 886
Submitted By: Alec on Aug 11, 2009

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Rob pulling pockets at the first bolt

Description 

Right in front of the grove of trees uphill from Slice of Pie and the second deep cave of the crag. Climbs out steep pockets via big moves to a large rail three bolts up. The rest of the route traverses up and right on adequate holds.

This is pretty soft compared to the other .12s on the wall, and thus probably a good choice for breaking into the grade. Getting off-route at all after the fourth bolt will lead you to a garden of choss.

Protection 

7 bolts. 6 had fixed draws when we did it. Stick clipping the first bolt is a good idea since the first moves are the hardest.


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By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 3, 2013

This line starts out on super solid rock, but about half way up, it gets pretty flaky and then becomes more solid higher up. If the route is chalked up, its probably pretty solid the whole way but if you're groping for holds, beware! The movement is quite good.