No Man is an Island  5.11a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, 2002 Submitted By:  Ivan Rezucha on Sep 16, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Island Rock.

Photo by Vaino Kodas; used...

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Description 

This has sustained climbing on decent rock, but perhaps not worth the trip. It seemed quite hard to me, harder than many of the recent 11a Boulder Canyon sport climbs.

Approach: from left of center of the main face, scramble to a grassy ledge and then up left towards a steep gully just left of a bolted arete. The bolted arete is No Man is an Island, 11a. Cracks are for Kids is the obvious crack system to the left.

The climb: The difficulties start with an interesting move off of a diagonal dike at the 3rd bolt. At the 4th or 5th bolt, I got sketched after committing to the very rounded arete. Around the 6th bolt you step left, lower is easier, to the edge of some dirty rock and then up.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

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Deb just past the 1st crux.