Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Tower Two
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Leagues T 
After The Gold Rush T 
Avoid the Rush T 
Bolting for Glory T 
Briny Deep, The T 
Cave Pitch T 
Centaur T,S 
Contest, The S 
Diving Board, The T 
Dizzy Miss Lizzy (aka Scrutiny on the Bounty) S 
Fools Learn TR 
Genius Loci S 
Ghoul's Turn T,TR 
Green Willow Wall T,S 
Inset, The T 
Jules Verne T 
Jules Verne Straight Up First Pitch Variation T 
King Tut T 
Le Void T 
Lene's Dream T 
Love Minus Zero T 
Naked Edge, The T 
No Lo Contendere T,S,TR 
Old Bad Aid Crack T 
One Way Out T 
Orifophobia T 
Plastic Jesus T 
Predator T,S 
PsychGillLogical T 
Rise Above, aka Mr. Malcontent T,S 
Rosy Crucifixion T 
Scratch and Sniff T,S,TR 
Seams Beyond T 
Seize of Holds T 
Serpent, The T 
Shasta T 
Sickness Unto Death S 
Slots of Fun T 
Slow Train Coming T,S 
Superlink, The T 
T2 T 
T2 Direct Finish T 
Touch 'N' Go T 
Weeping Willow T 
Wild Kingdom T,S 
Wingless Victory S 

No Lo Contendere 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Dieckhoff
New Route: Yes
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,132
Submitted By: steve dieckhoff on Nov 7, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
RP time! above the crux.

  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is on page 300 of the new Falcon Eldo guide. It is on the corner 50' right of Touch 'N' Go.

    An alert belayer is required. Some may call this 's', but I think the risky moves are not within 2 number grades of the difficulty of the crux. A small nut protects a bouldery start, then carefully step up to clip the first bolt. A hold out left expedites this clip. The crux of the first section is found when stepping over the rooflet. A good stopper can be placed at the stance above. The second section follows two bolts out right to the arete, although some have gone straight up from the first, and up to finish on The Contest.

    The climbing is technical in spots but there are frequent rests.

    My only reason for submitting this route can be found in the following....

    No Lo Contendre

    This route starts to the left of, and eventually joins, The Contest, hence the name which pleads 'no contest' in a court of law. It came into being after I saw the possibility of the upper half and thought to climb the lower BEHIND THE TREE route to reach it. I led it onsight on natural gear with my friend Mark Miller some time later.

    It was an adventure for me, but in those days, I was willing to add bolts to some of my routes after-the-fact and this one seemed appropriate. It had two cruxes that risked very bad falls. It lacked the aesthetic position that might have encouraged me to keep it as a 'death lead'. I asked the opinions of other local climbers who supported the idea.

    The fly-in-the-ointment was that the bottom part, the BEHIND THE TREE route, was in the book as having been done before by 'unknown'. I was on the FHRC at the time and thought that proposing to add a bolt in the bottom half and 2 bolts to the top half would make it safer though still as sporty as some other Roof Routes. More importantly, perhaps, was its value as a test case to promote public debate about adding bolts to existing routes. This issue, and the idea of replacing fixed pins with bolts, still lurks.

    The FHRC made its decisions in public meetings in those days. I had hopes of a lively discussion, but there was little debate, and it was approved (with me abstaining).

    Over the years, I have heard from a few people who were taken aback by this sequence of events. I told them I wished they had attended the meeting and voiced their objections then but that it wasn't too late. If they wanted to propose to remove one or more of them, then they should do so. I used Rawl bolts, so that they could be unscrewed easily and the holes camoflauged. I would be willing to attend the meeting, plead 'no contest', and help with the removal and repair. It was my intention to make the offer for "the good of the community", but it was probably misguided.

    I think this is a good time for the debate on this route to take place, and this is a good forum.

    take time to care, Steve Dieckhoff 11/6/2001

    Protection 

    There is a total of 4 bolts and nut placements


    Photos of No Lo Contendere Slideshow Add Photo
    Finishing the upper crux.
    Finishing the upper crux.
    The route.
    BETA PHOTO: The route.

    Comments on No Lo Contendere Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 26, 2012
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Nov 7, 2001
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

    Funny, I was just thinking of adding this route to the guide, but I am glad I did not. The history contained above is more interesting than anything I could have said, so I am glad that Steve made the contribution.

    That aside, here is my opinion on the route: I did it with the bolts in place last year. I thought that the lower face was simply a matter of concentration, but that a fall would produce grave (pun) results if it occurred at certain points. The upper (bolted) 1/2 is adequtely protected, but the move toward the right certainly produces a situation (crux) in which a somewhat uncomfortable fall could occur- the bolt would be to the left and the climber just up and right. Since the wall is quite featured here, it seems a leader could take a minor thump-and-scuffing. Injury seems unlikely, but pain seems likely.

    My partner and I concurred that this had been a lousy choice of warm-ups (even if you usually warm up on 5.10), and Peter described it as a lead he would not ever choose to do. I agree that the crux is significantly harder than the runout portion of the climb, and thus the "S" rating is debatable, but I suppose I am inclined to rate the lower 1/2 "S." and say the upper half is a little ennervating, but safe. This is my $.02.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Nov 12, 2001

    I have never climbed your route but I [climbed] The Contest a few times a year and always traverse one extra foot to the left after the crux to clip your bolt. Thanx much. It has made this route less committing than it was in the past.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Nov 12, 2001

    I just did this route for the first time on sat. 11/10 after Steve Diekhoff rescued my ropes! Thanks Steve! I thought the route was superb! I especially liked the balancy rock-over moves necessary to mantle the little roofs! I am also happy for the first bolt at the lip of the roof. Thanks again!
    By Anonymous Coward
    Nov 28, 2001

    I wasn't that impressed by the line. The balancy moves over the roof are fun, but no where near as classic as most other Eldo routes I've done. IMHO, I dont think it should warrant bolts, but its a free country, and the bolts aren't bothering me any, really!
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 7, 2002

    Honesty, fine, but this route really should get fixed or chopped. A very competent, former FHRC'er led this climb and got scared silly. There is major potential to keep climbing with shit for gear risking the big chop above the little roof until you get to the upper protected section. You proposed the bolts and now you think it should be fixed, so fix it. Submit the proposal.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Aug 29, 2003

    As you can tell from my prior comment, IMHO not a worthwhile route. Negative stars for the 8X or VS runout between the bolted sections. Poor craftsmanship for a route placed on rappel. Bolts close together close to the ground with a long stretch until higher bolts mislead one to believe you can find natural pro in between. Don't lead it unless you are willing to pay the piper.
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Mar 17, 2005

    I was fortunate enough to top-rope this route and I thought the rock and the moves, especially above the ramp halfway up, were excellent. It seemed like a real hidden gem in that regard. I don't have any desire to comment on the bolting, except to say I'm glad I wasn't leading.
    By Mike C. Robinson
    From: Rumney, NH
    Mar 9, 2008
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    I did the same subliminal seduction to no lo contendre, fell at the crux move pulling onto the ledge. stopped about 4 feet off the ground. A Scary fall but clean and once you pull through that move it's easy climbing, be solid on 10 or be good at rolling out of your fall the first bolt is about 10 feet up, but thats only bouldering height anyways. Fun Route!!!
    By Brian Adzima
    From: San Francisco
    Mar 29, 2008

    My buddy jumped off at the first bolt, with a little bit of warning, so I got some slack in. The fall was not too scary, but the potential for getting gored by the half broken off tree branch is.

    I thought the upper part is pretty good and the lower part is better than some of the routes people call 'classics'.
    By Bob Rotert
    Nov 22, 2008

    I think this is a good & worthy route, but don't get on it if you don't have the skills for a little risque climbing. You have to be in control to do this climb and you probably will deck if you fall at the 5.8ish move getting to the ramp 20' above the first bolt. The opening moves should filter out most that should not be on this route.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Mar 31, 2011
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

    The 5.8 section can be protected by RPs and a #1 and #2 Ballnut.
    As soon as you stand up above the crux roof, a #1 Ballnut can be placed in the seam on the left. A few moves higher I got a very good RP in the same seam. I would have been willing to fall on the RP but did not feel as good about the Ballnut simply because if it blew it was a long way above the bolt (it appeared to be good though). I placed the #2 Ballnut a bit higher and to the right. With these three pieces, a groundfall is unlikely before you reach the ramp.
    By Kevin Meyers
    Oct 26, 2012

    My friend Mike Brooks stuck me on this a long time ago. Not sure how long ago this was, but as I recall "someone" had just led it and there were no bolts until clipping the last bolt on the Contest. What I remember about doing this was for one it was pretty good and the other that it was pretty spicy. Another aspect of this route is that I don't think I would have noticed it or climbed it for that matter if it hadn't been for Mike who had a penchant for the obscure (he probably just wanted a ride up it - typical Brooks sandbag). As for the retrofitting with bolts, I can't comment except that if it's tastefully done and gets the line more traffic so be it. I remember that in its "natural" state, you would want to be real comfortable at that level.