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No Left Ear Extension 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Bechtel
Page Views: 146
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 22, 2011

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No Left Ear climbs up to the obvious roof, and ove...

Description 

This burly extension pierces the obvious high roof above "No Left Ear". The boulder problem is quick and dirty but nothing to sneeze at.

Climb "No Left Ear" to the alcove below the roof, then move out to the lip utilizing a pair of sloping pockets. Grope over the lip for a hard-to-find pocket, then make desparate reaches to a set of big, incut edges, throw a foot onto the lip (but which one?), then pull onto the raspy slab.


Location 

Continue in the Z-axis from the anchor of No Left Ear. No Left Ear is the third bolted line right of the leaning pillar.

Protection 

Many bolts to 2BA with fixed biners, then 2 more bolts to a poor anchor that is sure to twist the heck out of your rope. Best to move left to the WWW anchor and lower off that.


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By Jesse Brown
From: Laramie,wy
May 18, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Needs a hour or two of cleaning. Chossy, fun boulder pull over the roof.