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Varnishing Point 
Zen and the Art of Web Spinning 

No Laughing Matter 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 1,582
Submitted By: rockratrei on Jan 23, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The second pitch starts just right of the big bush...

Description 

P1 - same as Varnishing Point
P2 start 10' left of second pitch of varnishing point - follow a nice crack that becomes a left leaning seam to a hole, then continue up the crack and hand traverse right and make final moves to a 2-bolt belay.
Double rope rap to the ground.


Protection 

SR



Photos of No Laughing Matter Slideshow Add Photo
Jess Neuger smiling after the traverse on P2
Jess Neuger smiling after the traverse on P2
Comments on No Laughing Matter Add Comment
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By tom donnelly
Nov 18, 2009

Or rap back to ledge with one rope - 100 feet, and then rap Bush Pilots.
It looked like there might be some hazard of getting your rope stuck if you try the full 2 rope rappel.
You can also approach this route from Bush Pilots.

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 21, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The entire center of this route - about 50 or more feet - is a giant loose, hollow flake. You can get "good" gear but in very questionable rock. The climbing is fun but I am concerned it could peel off and kill climber and belayer. I love scary routes but won't do this one again. We rapped the entire route to the ground with 2 ropes and had no issue with rope getting stuck.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 3, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The movement and overall climbing is very good. The climb slowly progresses into it's difficulty and finally caps off with a nice hand traverse on good holds and varnished feet. But, the quality of the rock makes for a pretty scary ride as you suspect anything might give at any point in time. Luckily there are a few spots of solid rock that take pretty bomber gear.

By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 19, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Just did this route yesterday. Route eats nuts and I probably placed 4 cams and rest nuts. Don't let the read on hollow flakes scare you away. Good route to do when it's cold out along with other routes on this wall.

By Matt Kuehl
From: Las Vegas
Jan 14, 2014

Good moves… but overall the route's quality is really lessened due to the detached nature of the entire crux section and more. Worth climbing but use caution.

By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Apr 11, 2014

Some of the absolute worse gear I've ever climbed above.

Some of the absolute best moves across stone I've ever enjoyed.

Not for the feint of heart, true. But for the bold or the reckless or both, this line is a must, must do. (And for those with monkey arms, this will likely feel like it's clocking in at 9+)