No Laughing Matter 5.10-
| 1,372 page views Good page? (1 like)  |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | rockratrei on Jan 23, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: The second pitch starts just right of the big bush...
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Description P1 - same as Varnishing Point P2 start 10' left of second pitch of varnishing point - follow a nice crack that becomes a left leaning seam to a hole, then continue up the crack and hand traverse right and make final moves to a 2-bolt belay. Double rope rap to the ground.
Protection SR
Jess Neuger smiling after the traverse on P2
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| Comments on No Laughing Matter |
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By tom donnelly Nov 18, 2009
| Or rap back to ledge with one rope - 100 feet, and then rap Bush Pilots. It looked like there might be some hazard of getting your rope stuck if you try the full 2 rope rappel. You can also approach this route from Bush Pilots. |
By Tim Wolfe From: Salt Lake City, UT Feb 21, 2010 rating: 5.10-
| The entire center of this route - about 50 or more feet - is a giant loose, hollow flake. You can get "good" gear but in very questionable rock. The climbing is fun but I am concerned it could peel off and kill climber and belayer. I love scary routes but won't do this one again. We rapped the entire route to the ground with 2 ropes and had no issue with rope getting stuck. |
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Feb 3, 2012 rating: 5.10-
| The movement and overall climbing is very good. The climb slowly progresses into it's difficulty and finally caps off with a nice hand traverse on good holds and varnished feet. But, the quality of the rock makes for a pretty scary ride as you suspect anything might give at any point in time. Luckily there are a few spots of solid rock that take pretty bomber gear. |
By RNclimber From: Riverside, Ca Jan 19, 2013 rating: 5.10a
| Just did this route yesterday. Route eats nuts and I probably placed 4 cams and rest nuts. Don't let the read on hollow flakes scare you away. Good route to do when it's cold out along with other routes on this wall. |
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