No Laughing Matter
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BETA PHOTO: The second pitch starts just right of the big bush...
P1 - same as Varnishing Point
P2 start 10' left of second pitch of varnishing point - follow a nice crack that becomes a left leaning seam to a hole, then continue up the crack and hand traverse right and make final moves to a 2-bolt belay.
Double rope rap to the ground.
Jess Neuger smiling after the traverse on P2
|Comments on No Laughing Matter
|By tom donnelly|
Nov 18, 2009
Or rap back to ledge with one rope - 100 feet, and then rap Bush Pilots.
It looked like there might be some hazard of getting your rope stuck if you try the full 2 rope rappel.
You can also approach this route from Bush Pilots.
|By Tim Wolfe|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 21, 2010
The entire center of this route - about 50 or more feet - is a giant loose, hollow flake. You can get "good" gear but in very questionable rock. The climbing is fun but I am concerned it could peel off and kill climber and belayer. I love scary routes but won't do this one again. We rapped the entire route to the ground with 2 ropes and had no issue with rope getting stuck.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 3, 2012
The movement and overall climbing is very good. The climb slowly progresses into it's difficulty and finally caps off with a nice hand traverse on good holds and varnished feet. But, the quality of the rock makes for a pretty scary ride as you suspect anything might give at any point in time. Luckily there are a few spots of solid rock that take pretty bomber gear.
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 19, 2013
Just did this route yesterday. Route eats nuts and I probably placed 4 cams and rest nuts. Don't let the read on hollow flakes scare you away. Good route to do when it's cold out along with other routes on this wall.