|Crescent Crack Buttress
Great route with tantalizing slabby face climbing. A tenuous start protects the awesome arete.
Historical trivia: I think Kent put this up the morning of his wedding day.
Climbs the arete right of Hand Jive, between Crack in the Woods and Roterts.
Nov 11, 2007
I noticed that too - about a year and a half ago. I doubt it gets led very often if no one has replaced it in that long time. Kinda hard where the bolt is missing.
|By Dave Budge|
Nov 12, 2007
I'll talk to Kent and take care of it.
Jun 27, 2009
i think the "carrot" adds character to this superb line. what a route!
From: SL UT
Apr 8, 2010
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I'm just gonna say it...this route is 12c, highly technical, and sports multiple cruxes. The true crux comes above the first bolt-a thin, ugly V5. After that it sports multiple 12- cruxes. For me it was a time warp of insecure, difficult climbing. One bolt is still missing a hangar, and the stud sticks out at the point where this route comes closest to Hand Jive crack(about half the way up). Comparatively, the climbing isn't hard where the hangar is gone. There are chains at the top, about 11 bolts, and 70m rope puts you down best. This route is mentally taxing, and after you've led it, its strangely difficult to decide whether it was "fun" or not...
Apr 13, 2010
I'd have to agree with Brad. The No Jive Arete is hard--really, really hard. The route was hand-drilled on the lead with no hooks, a Kent Wheeler testpiece. This year's the year I'll finally send! S
|By nooky brown|
Apr 14, 2010
Yeah right, whatever.
Its only 12a max you gumbys.
From: Small Lake, UT
May 2, 2011
For what it's worth we ran into Kent up there this weekend and in between bouts of heckling his partners he told me 11c was the hardest he could climb back then (wink wink) so that's what he graded it. He also mentioned that some holds might have broken then floated the thing with the exception of the nonsensical moves around the 1st bolt.
|By Ben Folsom|
May 3, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
no way this is 12c...and it is fun!
|By Skat B|
From: Down Rodeo
Jul 15, 2012
bolt hanger missing halfway up arete
|By Ryan Arnold|
Apr 30, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
WOW! I only toproped it but it sure left an impression. Multiple 11++ sections of steep, thin slab. Probably 3 positive holds on the entire 35 meter route. Top is slightly easier than bottom but still extremely sustained. I think this would be a great route to work if you're building up to Cymbals in the Sun. Bolt hanger still missing halfway up... quite close to hand jive crack.