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Routes in Lover's Leap
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It's a Bird! A Plane! T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Love Dike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Love Gun T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Love It Or Leave It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lover's Leap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lover's Leap Arete T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Holds Barred T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Original Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rescue Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Seamingly Easy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Something for Nothing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Thing, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Unknown T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Where Tunas Flop T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ye Olde Hysterical T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,049 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | TBD on Oct 24, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
P1. Start as for Lover's Leap. There are really two possible corner systems to start Lover's Leap, choose the one on the right. Climb up to an obvious, small, rectangular roof (approximately 3 feet x 2.5 feet) - this is visible in the lower photo in the Lover's Leap area description. Climb around this roof to the left. At the next small roof, climb straight up through it. Continue to climb straight up past some loose rock and lichen. This is the crux of the pitch, be careful to check what you are grabbing on to - some tempting holds are very loose. This pitch ends directly below the midway bolts on Lover's Leap, 5.8.
P2. Climb up the left side of the obvious roof. The climbing is a bit tricky and a tad runout until you can place under the roof. After surmounting the roof (5.9), rail up and right along a good crack to a fixed pin. Clip the pin, and climb straight up the corners, cracks, and edges above, 5.8+. The pro is a little tricky, but it is all there. Continue up some easier ground to the left side of a large ledge. Continue straight up the ever steepening (is that a word?) face above your stance on the ledge. Your first placement above the ledge is in a chossy crack at a small bulge. Run it out past this piece towards an obvious "v" notch, 5.6 S. Below the notch, load up the small diagonal seam with RPs and/or a #3 Ballnut. Pull up a little farther, and place an okay cam. Pull up through the notch into the "v"-shaped dihedral, 5.8+. Stem, chimney, and grovel unprotected up the somewhat dirty dihedral to a roof at its end, 5.7 S. Pull around the right side of the roof, and continue straight up to a large ledge, 5.5 S/VS. At the ledge, you can set a belay (to try one of the exciting options above), continue up and right to finish after clipping the good bolt to the climber's right, or traverse left to the belay bolts below the exit cracks on Lover's Leap.
Combining the second pitch with the first pitch of Something For Nothing would make for a two star outing. The first pitch as described above is not that good, and detracts from the overall quality of the route.
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