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One of Cochamó's most classic routes offers excellent cracks that meander up mostly moderate 5.10. The route is divided into two parts, split in the middle by a large ledge. Each half ends with a challenging crack move.
Approach: Walk one hour futher after passing the camp at Trinidad's base. Locate on the back-side wall of Gorilla. The route climbs near the far left side.
5.9, 45 meters. Climb up slightly right and into a left-facing dihedral.
5.10c, 35 meters. Continue up the dihedral as it curves its way left. Belay from anchor.
5.10d, 20 meters. Head straight up and pull the off-hands roof crack. Belay from big ledge system.
5.9, 30 meters. Move right and up a ramp to a ledge. Traverse right to a dihedral and up to a bolted belay.
5.10b, 40 meters. Don't go straight up. Make face moves left and up into a curvy mostly finger crack.
5.11a, 40 meters. Climb up, out right, back left past bolts and into the last steep crack to the walls end.
To the peak: A spectacular flat granite soccer field makes Gorila's peak. But if you want, you can continue to the true peak about 90 min. scrambling west up the ridge line.
Descent: Rapel the route.
backside of the gorilla, at the base of the furthest right of the splitter dihedrals.
check in refugio
2nd pitch splitter!
Katie reaches the top out jug - such an incredible...
From: Somerville, MA
Sep 26, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Every pitch is classic! The last pitch, in particular, is one of the more stunning finishes to a route that I've ever seen.