No Hay Hoyes
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One of Cochamó's most classic routes offers excellent cracks that meander up mostly moderate 5.10. The route is divided into two parts, split in the middle by a large ledge. Each half ends with a challenging crack move.
Approach: Walk one hour futher after passing the camp at Trinidad's base. Locate on the back-side wall of Gorilla. The route climbs near the far left side.
5.9, 45 meters. Climb up slightly right and into a left-facing dihedral.
5.10c, 35 meters. Continue up the dihedral as it curves its way left. Belay from anchor.
5.10d, 20 meters. Head straight up and pull the off-hands roof crack. Belay from big ledge system.
5.9, 30 meters. Move right and up a ramp to a ledge. Traverse right to a dihedral and up to a bolted belay.
5.10b, 40 meters. Don't go straight up. Make face moves left and up into a curvy mostly finger crack.
5.11a, 40 meters. Climb up, out right, back left past bolts and into the last steep crack to the walls end.
To the peak: A spectacular flat granite soccer field makes Gorila's peak. But if you want, you can continue to the true peak about 90 min. scrambling west up the ridge line.
Descent: Rapel the route.
backside of the gorilla, at the base of the furthest right of the splitter dihedrals.
check in refugio
Louis at the crux!
Katie reaches the top out jug - such an incredible...
From: Somerville, MA
Sep 26, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Every pitch is classic! The last pitch, in particular, is one of the more stunning finishes to a route that I've ever seen.