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Campjack Rocks
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No Handlebars 

YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13 French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Justin Edl and Bonnie Botello
Page Views: 865
Submitted By: Justin Edl on Jul 3, 2010

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Description 

This is a beautiful little technical crack climb. The crack starts as positive underclings out a roof, then turns into really flared overhanging hands after it turns the lip. Where this crack all but disappears, reach out left to another crack and top out. The rock on this is excellent, the movement is fun and interesting, and it is a very aesthetic line.


Location 

If coming from the road to Crow Reservoir, continue past Jet Stream and contour around the base of the formation, heading up the drainage that is between the formation with Jet Stream and the next little dome to the east. At the top of the drainage, look left to spy this line, which is on a little outcrop that is part of the main dome.


Protection 

I used a 3, 3.5, and 4 Friend for the anchor, which can easily be accessed by walking around to the climbers right of the climb. Also bring lots of sling to extend this anchor.



Comments on No Handlebars Add Comment
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By Davin Bagdonas
Jul 20, 2010

This was project 14 in the bouldering guide. Nice Work.

By poundit14
From: Laramie, WY
Jul 28, 2010

Nice job, Edl!