No Golf Shoes
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The first pitch is 5.10a (.11b? with direct start), and the second pitch is airy and pumpy 5.11b
This route is Just to the left of Tuff It Out. Either stem up the short dihedral to the right (PG), or do the more difficult direct start
p1: 5? bolts, chains
p2: ? bolts, slings?
|Comments on No Golf Shoes
From: Los Angeles, for now
Nov 5, 2008
Sorry I don't remember much about the bolts or anchors on this route, please feel free to add info and I will update as I see it.
From: Minneapolis, MN
Feb 2, 2009
i climbed it on saturday, and thought it was pretty awesome. thesenga gives it 10d, and im glad to see someone disagrees with that - i was pretty sure it was more like 11b or c. i thought the moves near the top were exciting, well-bolted, exposed and technical. unlike 95% of smith rock that climbs well, this route has no chalk on the upper pitch, making my work up there true onsighting (something i rarely have the opportunity to do around here with all the chalk). stepping off onto the seemingly featureless headwall from the comfy slabby crack is exhilarating.
all bolts looked good, as did the anchors. it was measured out just right - i made it to the ground with stretch in my 70m cord. bring fourteen or so draws to link it. i ran out and had to downclimb to scavenge in three spots.
|By Jason Chinchen|
From: Bishop, Califonia
Mar 14, 2010
Erik, is this the route I helped you bolt? I remember the second pitch being really fun.
|By Bridger Mann-Wood|
From: Lander, WY
Oct 13, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I did this route, and thought it was great. A bouldery start for 2-3 moves, and then really solid climbing through/around a small roof to the first set of anchors. I thought even with the bouldery start it was about 10c, but I'm pretty tall too which may have helped.
I linked the second pitch, and thought it was really, really excellent. No chalk, which was swell, and the moves super fun and sustained. I think about 11a or 10d.
Overall, a really good climb. Worth it.