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h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amber Waves of Pain T 
Andrew T 
Android-Moby Dick link-up T 
Annie Oh! T 
Arrow T 
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) T 
CCK Direct T 
Cold Turkeys T 
Diana T 
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) T 
Erect Direction T 
Face to Face T 
Feast of Fools T 
Hans' Puss T 
Jim's Gem T 
Keep on Struttin' T 
Last Will Be First, The T 
Limelight T 
Lost and Found T 
Man's Quest for Flight T 
Moby Dick T 
Modern Times T 
Moonlight T 
No Glow T 
Nurse's Aid T 
Proctor Silex T 
Proctoscope T 
Red Pillar T 
Silhouette T 
Smilin' the Hard Way T 
Steep Hikin' T 
Step Lively T 
Suppers Ready T 
Three Doves T 
Three Vultures T 
Traverse of the Clods T 
Unholy Wick T 
Updraft T 

No Glow 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 270'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Tim Mutch, 1954. FFA: Art Gran, Lito Tejada-Flores, 1965
Page Views: 2,417
Submitted By: John Peterson on Apr 1, 2006

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Looking up first pitch.
Also fun...

Description 

This climbs the steep wall right of Andrew and left of Erect Direction.

P1 (description by Anthony Baraff): The cliff-side trail is near a local low near the start of the climb. Look up for a distinctive right-facing flake in the overhang 40 feet up, and start 10 feet to the right at a shallow left-facing ramp below blocks 20 feet up. Climb the ramp up to the blocks, then follow the path of least resistance up to the overhang at the flake; climb up through the overhang before continuing up and left to the pine tree belay/rap-station (two ropes require to get down from here) at the GT ledge.

There are many possible alternate routes up in the 20 foot-wide band of cliff above the start and below the belay station, but I think this description more or less matches the guide and keeps the difficulty at or below 5.5 G/PG.

Alternatives in the area for P1 include Three Vultures, Moonlight, Erect Direction, and even Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK).

Pitch 2: Look for an arching roof about 30' above the GT Ledge. Climb up to the right side of this arch and then move right to a clean, white wall and cracks leading up through an exciting roof (crux). Definitely harder for short people. 5.9, 120'.

Location 

Walk up from the carriage road at the Andrew boulder, on the same access trail as for Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK). This is about a 16-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 12-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. Go about 100' left from where the trail hits the cliff to get to the start of the route.

There are several possible descents:

One rope will get you back to the GT from the chain at the clifftop, but you'll need two ropes from there to get to the ground. With one rope, you can walk right on the GT ledge to the Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) tree (one 60m rappel to the ground).

Alternatively, from the clifftop you can walk several hundred feet right (north); a bolted rappel line ~150 feet descends over The Last Will Be First with one rope in three rappels.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack


Photos of No Glow Slideshow Add Photo
No Glow, P2.
BETA PHOTO: No Glow, P2.
Gblauer on the opening moves of No Glow P1.  Photo by Seth G
Gblauer on the opening moves of No Glow P1. Photo...

Comments on No Glow Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 30, 2014
By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

Absolutely worth doing. One of those upper pitches--similar to Three Doves--often overlooked because lower part is average. What I most recall is the pure white face right after the roof. Vertical, thin, exposed.
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
May 30, 2008

The hardest move on the first pitch - 15 feet or so off the ground - is poorly protected, but after that the gear is good and there are great holds, fun moves, and nice exposure.
By David Stowe
Aug 14, 2010

The first pitch that is just to right of Three Vultures is actually the first pitch of Face to Face. I have always used this to access the upper pitch of No Glow as it keeps a more consistent grade. It also quite a good pitch and very much worth doing. There is no gear for about 20 feet but it is very easy, low angle and has holds. A very good link up.
By John Peterson
Aug 14, 2010

Not having been on the 1st pitch for over 20 years, I'll be happy to defer to more recent experience. I did this back in the day of the Swain guide which is notoriously vague about some routes.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 14, 2010

Linked P1 of Face to Face with P2 of No Glow. P2 is just awesome. A great traverse to get on to the face, an almost ladder like climb to a beautiful white roof. Pull the roof (Beta warning: undercling the corner with your left hand, streeeeetch like crazy with your right hand and just get your little fingers on the sweetest edge you will ever great, get up on tippy toes and sink your fingers into the jug. At 5'2" it was a real stretch for me. Great climb
By SethG
Oct 4, 2010

I think pitch one of No Glow is well worth doing. It is pretty standard 5.4-5.5 Gunks face climbing, with many horizontals and no big standout moments. But it is very pleasant, certainly on a par with the first pitch of CCK or Arrow or any number of other climbs. I would not suggest P1 to an aspiring 5.4 leader, though, because the first pro is at least 15 feet off the ground. The climbing to this point is quite easy but a new leader might be unnerved.

P2 is great. If you can't make the reach, move your feet up. I reached left, underclinged right. After you pull the overhang there's a nice move up with smearing feet, then it's pretty smooth sailing.
By kenr
May 17, 2012

I agree with SethG about P1 being a worthwhile 5.4+ Gunks climb in its own right -- but not for new leaders. Even a leader experienced leading Gunks 5.9s with a well-tuned Gunks rack should expect lots of places for thought about protection and moves, not just a little scamper up the start of P2.

While I agree that there was a section of P1 not far off the ground where it was not well protected, I did not think the hardest moves on P1 were in that section. (also my view is that the "flake" about 40 ft up in the desctription above on this page, sort of points toward the right, just below an overhang).

A hint for P2 is to start by going up the Left-facing corner to the Left of the roof directly over the P1 top belay/rap station. Then make a not very well-protected (or should we say "unprotected"?) traverse Right to get above that roof.

Crux of P2 seemed to me well protected, which likely helps the popularity of this climb. While making the long reach is critical for the leader, I doubt it's strictly necessary for the follower -- provided the leader hangs a non-short sling (or slings) off the obvious protection just above.
By Eric G.
Apr 29, 2013

Super fun second pitch and, although the crux is well protected, make sure your second can handle a 5.5ish unprotected traverse that could send them to a nasty swing. It looks like double ropes could completely alleviate this problem and would give your second more options post-crux as well.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I thought the section above the crux on P2 was a bit run-out.
By SethG
Sep 19, 2013

I think I am done with No Glow. The second pitch scares me, for two reasons:

1. I have always been sort of creeped out by the big sickle/flake that is just sitting on a very narrow shelf right above the crux move. You yard on this flake to get established above the roof, and there are no footholds so you have to smear and pull out, not down, to some extent.

2. There is a loose block just leaning against the wall two moves from the top, a little to the right. It is Texas-shaped and about three and a half feet wide. I absent-mindedly touched it, barely, last Sunday and the block moved. It is NOT attached. It could go at any time.

You can avoid both of these features. If you don't use the sickle/flake at the crux, I'm guessing the crux will be much much harder. I don't think it will be 5.9- any more. (The two pins will still protect you though.) At the top of the cliff, you can easily avoid the loose block by staying to the left. Please don't go near this block, it is very dangerous. I don't even want to rap there any more.
By Pawel
From: NJ
May 5, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Second pitch is absolutely fantastic! If you climb it right, you can avoid some of the dangers (avoid flakes mentioned by SethG and don't fall on the 5.5 traverse at the start of P2- find the good crimps and solid feet) but make sure both leader and follower are solid.
By JSH
Administrator
May 5, 2014

Major rockfall from P2 of No Glow, May 2014.
By Andrew Casler
From: Ithaca, NY
Jun 29, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I heard the May 4, 2014 rock fall while I was walking on the carriage road. I had followed P1 the day before. The rock fell onto the spot where I had belayed my leader from.

I climbed P2 on May 21, 2014 and saw that it's the not huge, precarious flake that you need to mantle off of to get through the crux that fell. Instead there's a discoloration just at the last moves of the climb, marking the place where the rock the fell used to sit. The climb is still a 5.9.

There's no gear for about 10-15 feet after the crux, and it's tempting to plug gear behind the big flake, but very unsafe. A lead fall may generate enough force to dislodge the ~1,000 pound thing, potentially severing your rope and killing anyone who's at the No Glow's P1 belay area.

I would recommend climbing this only on a day when the cliff isn't busy.
By SethG
Jun 30, 2014

So it was the Texas block. Thanks for the info.