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 ADVANCED
(3) Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anastasia TR 
Arcturus TR 
Classic Crack T 
Critical Mass S 
Hard Body S 
Hit the Highway T,S 
Kashmir S 
Let's Just Call It Kashmir Direct? S 
Mr. Bentley TR 
No Friction T 
On the Loose TR 
Physical Graffiti T 
Pinhead S 
Red Eye S 
Sheer Energy T,S 
Sheer Stress T 
Shoot From the Hip T,S 
Thai Stick S 

No Friction 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 1988. W. Wallace
Page Views: 650
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jul 1, 2006

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Me leading Friction

Description 

This route packs in easy crack climbing, a bouldery roof, and a slab into a compact 50 feet. Start on the leaning columns (the cracks here eat small to medium nuts) and move up to a roof sequence protected by two bolts. Pull through the roof on good holds to the slab above, which provides 10 more feet of climbing to the anchors.

Location 

On the far right side of the Red Wall. Look for an arcing line of columns up to the bolted roof.

Protection 

Small to medium nuts, two quickdraws.


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