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Middle Hawksbill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Appalachian Spring T 
Carpe Freeum T 
Green Wall T,S 
Green Wave, The T 
Hard Rock Cafe S 
Hemlock Arete T 
If You Bolt It They Will Come S 
Lichen Worms T,S 
Line of Fire S 
Manifest Destiny S 
No Free Lunch T,S 
Pseudo Hardmen S 
Real Hard Men S 
Tips Ahoy S 
Triple Bypass T,S 
Tweakend (AKA Pascal's Route) T,S 

No Free Lunch 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Dan Caldwell, Tim Snyder
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 2,445
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Mar 29, 2009  with updates from Alexander Blum

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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The slab and headwall above

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This line is a linkup of on existing sport route and a trad finish. Dan and myself re-discovered this finish sometime in 2004.

Climb the 2nd sport route on the lower slab to the anchor(5.11A). Continue up and right to a roof. Move left then straight up aiming to top out right, of the obvious V-shaped block at the top(5.10 c/d). Double bolt anchor at the top.

Done as one long pitch, I recall it being quite fun.

Location 

This route is located at Middle Hawksbill. Go to the main wall (upper wall) and continue down the cliffline another 300 yards. You will come to the steep 5.12 wall first; continue past this another 100 yards and you will finally reach the correct wall (lower angled slab capped by a roof). Start on the second sport route and climb past the anchor and continue to the top.

Protection 

Begining section is seven bolts? The roof requires Camalots to blue (optional 3-1/2 or 4) and double TCUs to orange. Many long runners. You can top rope if you extend the anchor down (watch the ends of the rope!!!!).


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By Ben Sachs
Apr 10, 2009

3 stars is modest. One of the best pitches around (if you link the slab and head wall). Classic.
By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Apr 12, 2009

It's been a few years (2005?) but I thought the headwall was stellar, too. Don't recall placing that much gear, though - I didn't use a double rack of TCUs. Also remember the rock below the anchor having a sharp lip - watch for it if you are toproping.
By BruceBurgessNC
Apr 29, 2009

This is an excellent route and linkup with the 11a sport pitch. The actual FA of the route was done by Thomas Kelly and Pascal Robert around 1990. Tim and Dan climbed it years later thinking it was a FA. The original first pitch has a lone bolt 50ft up and left of the 5.9 warmup sport route. It starts on a series of jugs left of the dirty corner. They belayed on natural gear near one of the double bolt sport route anchors. Maybe Pascal will tell us the real name for this pitch.
By Mike Grimm
May 5, 2009

I have a topo that calls it "Eclipsecicle" FA: Thomas, Pascal. It shows the route coming in from the left and using the bolt as Bruce mentioned. Linking it with "Pseudo Hardmen" (The 5.10c sport route) makes an excellent pitch and adds an extra dimension to both climbs.
By sean barb
From: winston salem, north carolina,
May 10, 2009

great line; do it in one pitch! was a fat rattler hanging out at the anchor... yikes!
By Abel Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 10, 2012

Great 5.10 pitch! Mantling the top after the link-up is more like 5-stars!
By ErichPurpur
Oct 30, 2013

Amazing. I did it in 2 pitches because we didn't have enough long slings. Very steep, exposure. Probably the best route I have done at Middle Hawksbill.