This line is a linkup of on existing sport route and a trad finish. Dan and myself re-discovered this finish sometime in 2004.
Climb the 2nd sport route on the lower slab to the anchor(5.11A). Continue up and right to a roof. Move left then straight up aiming to top out right, of the obvious V-shaped block at the top(5.10 c/d). Double bolt anchor at the top.
Done as one long pitch, I recall it being quite fun.
This route is located at Middle Hawksbill. Go to the main wall (upper wall) and continue down the cliffline another 300 yards. You will come to the steep 5.12 wall first; continue past this another 100 yards and you will finally reach the correct wall (lower angled slab capped by a roof). Start on the second sport route and climb past the anchor and continue to the top.
Begining section is seven bolts? The roof requires Camalots to blue (optional 3-1/2 or 4) and double TCUs to orange. Many long runners. You can top rope if you extend the anchor down (watch the ends of the rope!!!!).
|Comments on No Free Lunch
|By Ben Sachs|
Apr 10, 2009
3 stars is modest. One of the best pitches around (if you link the slab and head wall). Classic.
|By Coz Teplitz|
From: Watertown, MA
Apr 12, 2009
It's been a few years (2005?) but I thought the headwall was stellar, too. Don't recall placing that much gear, though - I didn't use a double rack of TCUs. Also remember the rock below the anchor having a sharp lip - watch for it if you are toproping.
Apr 29, 2009
This is an excellent route and linkup with the 11a sport pitch. The actual FA of the route was done by Thomas Kelly and Pascal Robert around 1990. Tim and Dan climbed it years later thinking it was a FA. The original first pitch has a lone bolt 50ft up and left of the 5.9 warmup sport route. It starts on a series of jugs left of the dirty corner. They belayed on natural gear near one of the double bolt sport route anchors. Maybe Pascal will tell us the real name for this pitch.
|By Mike Grimm|
May 5, 2009
I have a topo that calls it "Eclipsecicle" FA: Thomas, Pascal. It shows the route coming in from the left and using the bolt as Bruce mentioned. Linking it with "Pseudo Hardmen" (The 5.10c sport route) makes an excellent pitch and adds an extra dimension to both climbs.
|By sean barb|
From: winston salem, north carolina,
May 10, 2009
great line; do it in one pitch! was a fat rattler hanging out at the anchor... yikes!
|By Abel Jones|
From: Hickory, NC
Jun 10, 2012
Great 5.10 pitch! Mantling the top after the link-up is more like 5-stars!
Oct 30, 2013
Amazing. I did it in 2 pitches because we didn't have enough long slings. Very steep, exposure. Probably the best route I have done at Middle Hawksbill.