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No Exit S,TR 
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No Exit 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Vandiver, Lee Sheftel & Rick Smith, 10/89
Season: year round
Page Views: 701
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Heading into the overhanging crux of No Exit.

Description 

As the name implies, the crux of the route is the exit to the anchor. If the anchor was at the lip, the route would likely be rated 5.11.

Slabby, runout edge climbing on 5.7ish terrain to the way-high (15') first bolt leads to 5.10ish climbing up to the hard, overhanging finishing headwall. The crux is pulling over the top to the very highly placed anchors.

This route doesn't see much traffic and tends to stay very dirty because it's a natural rain run-off line.

Location 

Bolted line in the middle of the face left of the Cholla Wall face route. The steep, overhanging headwall at the top is obvious. Shown as route number 7 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection 

5 bolts to bolted anchor. The overhanging crux is very well protected. Watch out for the z-clip!


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By Wa3lt
Sep 23, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I've always thought this was quite hard for the grade. The finish (IMO) is a solid V5 boulder problem, though you get a great rest before doing it.

I've seen people pre-clip the anchors with 4+' long "draws" to avoid the last cruxy bits.
By Dave Wachter
Apr 18, 2010

12a my ass
By Dave Wachter
May 4, 2010

Somebody sell me on this route. As far as I can tell based on 2 uninspired go's on lead, it's a mediocre pile of devious 5.10 for maybe 20 feet, then a poorly (yet overly) bolted 10' v5 boulder problem with an obligate tweaky clip off a mono (to protect a fall onto slab). The final awkward 5.12+ effort to clip the chains off miserable slopers removes all remaining aesthetic.
A recipe for injury if you ask me, and a less proud send than the pink-tape route in the gym.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
May 26, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I don't recall there being any need to clip off of any monos on this one. I do remember the mono, but if I recall correctly, you can clip without much trouble using the sidepull off to the right (the sidepull consists of the left side of a rounded hueco). I think 12a is about right. I think Face Off is more difficult and though I have not been on this in years, I would say that the boulder problem is no harder than V4, which puts it right at 12a. The D'Antonio Approach has a boulder problem at the bottom that is more difficult than No Exit and that route is also 12a, so I dunno, 12a seems fair.

And no, hanging a four foot draw does not count....you have to clip off the 'baby butt' sloper at the top.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I had written off "No Exit" as dumb for a while, but got on this route a couple of times in the last month or so and have a more favorable impression now. While the easier bottom half is dirty, the crux at the top is clean and a fun sequence. I think my beta for the crux clips is different. I clip the 2nd-to-last bolt from below, leaning to the right from the obvious crack/seam. I clip the last bolt at waist-level after reaching the decent hold at the lip. Clip the chains after 1 or 2 more moves to the fin just left of the chains, rather than trying to reach it from the sloper lower down. Hope this helps. Maybe if more people got on this climb it would keep the dust off the bottom. It is the next logical step at the crag after Face Off.

Don't know about the grade; the steep crux with big moves is atypical for White Rock. Overhanging is not my style (especially nowadays), but it does seem harder than Face Off and the popular 12a's at BONP in my opinion. More powerful climbers might not as much of an issue.
By Sky Sjue
From: Santa Fe
Jul 4, 2012

Led it today and I liked it. There was some dirt but it wasn't bad.

Why clip the chains before fully pulling over the lip? There were a few hard but well-protected moves, then the anchors were easy to clip from the top. I thought it was exhilirating and fun; can't wait to give it another go in the pursuit of a clean send.

That first bolt sure is high!