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 ADVANCED
Southwest Face / Finger Face
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Chatters 
Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It or Clip It) 
Finger Ramp 
Lower Finger Direct 
Lower Finger Traverse 
No Ethics Required 
Pig Dreams 
Place in the Sun 
Son of Tidricks 
Tidrick's 
Upper Finger Direct 
Upper Finger Traverse 
Unsorted Routes:

No Ethics Required 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Bowman & Bob Robertson, 1980
Page Views: 815
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Mar 19, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Myong crimping her way up No Ethics.

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  • Description 

    This is a good face route that climbs thin edges through a bulge. The route is pretty sustained 5.9, with one crux at the fourth piton, involving tricky and thin footwork. This fourth piton is a bit difficult to clip for shorter climbers. It is definitely much harder route than Son of Tidrick's or Place in the Sun.


    Location 

    This route is located on the Finger Face, just left of Son of Tidrick's. Climb the Tourist Gully and belay from the third large eyebolt. From here, you step down a bit, then traverse right about 20 feet to reach the first ring-angle piton.


    Protection 

    5 drilled pitons. 2 pin anchor.



    Photos of No Ethics Required Slideshow Add Photo
    Bill Weiss just below the crux.
    Bill Weiss just below the crux.
    Bill Weiss just getting started.
    Bill Weiss just getting started.
    Bill Weiss descends.  He's just a little below the crux in this photo.
    Bill Weiss descends. He's just a little below the...
    What a great climb!
    What a great climb!
    Comments on No Ethics Required Add Comment
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    By Bill Olszewski
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Mar 6, 2011
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    Fantastic, thin, sustained route! If you like Place in the Sun, this is the next level, and all the pins are exactly where they need to be.