Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Whitney Portal Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beckey-Callis T 
Gangway T 
Ghostrider T,S 
Mean Streak T 
Nimbus T 
No Country For Old Men T 
Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") T 
Unsorted Routes:

No Country For Old Men 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 900', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: S.P. Parker, Howie Schwartz, Mark Houston, Kathy Cosley, Chris Simmons, Wayne Sayer (2007)
Page Views: 2,623
Submitted By: Bryan G on Jul 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: No Country topo

Description 

A modern classic and one of the best in Whitney Portal. Ghostrider might have better rock quality, but No Country has more varied and memorable climbing and fewer crowds on the route. It's also a step up in difficulty from Ghostrider.

Pitch 1 (5.9) Start in an easy ramp to gain a brushy ledge about 50 feet up. Traverse right along this ledge for a while to a short section of 5.9 face on knobs past a bolt. Gain another ledge and traverse back left to the anchors.

Pitch 2 (5.10b) A long pitch of sustained face climbing past many bolts. Skip the intermediate anchor and belay at the bolts below the lieback pitch.

Pitch 3 (5.10c) A leaning flake/corner provides nearly a ropelength of sustained, awesome liebacking on offwidth crack. Leave the big cams at home and bring all the quickdraws you own, because this baby is bolted the entire way - something like 17 I think, but I lost count. Punch it all the way to the anchors at an awkward stance on the edge of the corner.

Pitch 4 (5.9) Up some more lieback flake, but with more features. Then cut right on a face past a couple bolts to an undercling flake. Then climb up the right side of the flake which is a little scary because the flake is very thin and the pro behind it is questionable. Belay on a big ledge.

Pitch 5 (5.?) The tunnel pitch. Start up some cracks near the right side of the ledge and then traverse left into the giant chimney/cave above. Chimney up and through, past a couple bolts to belay at another big ledge.

I actually couldn't figure out the start to this pitch and did a variation by just climbing up the left side of the chimney/tunnel. This variation was loose but easy, with pro behind the occasional chockstone. I would rate it 5.6R.

Pitch 6 (5.10a) Another great pitch of face climbing on Tuolumne style knobs. You'll probably want to first move the belay from the bolted anchors above the chimney to the left side of the ledge below the bolt line. Then wander up and right past many bolts and a short crux at a left facing corner that you pass through.

Pitch 7 (5.7 R/X) The "death-flake horror-show pitch". Up a shallow corner and then past a precarious loose block that is somehow still clinging to the wall. Then, ever so gently, climb up the super-thin, super-scary flake for about 50 feet. Carefully avoid another pile of loose blocks poised at the top of the flake. Belay at the bolted anchor at the top of the flake. It's hard to say whether it's more dangerous to lead this pitch or belay it.

Pitch 8 (5.9) Up and right on a fun and easy white dike. Then just before reaching the anchors at the top of Ghostrider, climb up and left past a stout 5.9 crux to a bolted anchor.

To descend rappel the route with 2 ropes. At the top of the 4th pitch (after rapping through the giant cavern), rappel straight down the face twice more.

Location 

The beautiful lieback corner on pitch 3 is easily visible from most places in the portal. Hike up to Whitney Portal Buttress as per Ghostrider, but then skirt left aiming for this feature. Beneath it are ledges. Begin at the left end of these ledges.

Protection 

Gear to 1.5" and an upwards of 15 quickdraws.


Photos of No Country For Old Men Slideshow Add Photo
P.3 fun
P.3 fun
Rappelling through the tunnel pitch.
Rappelling through the tunnel pitch.
Starting the third pitch of No Country for Old Men -- (rotate the pic so the draws hang down to get the correct angle). <br />Photo by T. Chrudinsky
Starting the third pitch of No Country for Old Men...
My first attempt at drawing a topo.
BETA PHOTO: My first attempt at drawing a topo.
Third pitch anchor - No Country for Old Men.
Third pitch anchor - No Country for Old Men.

Comments on No Country For Old Men Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jul 22, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Nice job with this page Bryan.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 14, 2011

Pitch 3 is one of the wildest pitches I've EVER encountered. Worth the price of admission.
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 17, 2012

One of my favorite routes on the Eastside! The pitches are varied and some of them are wild and unique. More interesting and fun than Ghostrider. Still cleaning up a bit but mostly clean. I don't remember the 5.7 pitch being R/X. A little loose but fine.
By J Smith
Aug 26, 2012

The 3rd pitch is really cool but I thought the rest of the climbing was just ok. I like both Ghostrider and Gangway better. On the 5th pitch if you start on the very right side of the ledge you can chimney up a groove for 20ft. to access a left facing dihedral that takes good gear and has reasonably solid rock. At the top a 10 ft. undercling traverse left (3" gear) leads directly to the first bolt.
By Richard Shore
Jun 3, 2014

Many parties are now just doing the first three pitches, but they are short-changing themselves. The chimney pitch 5 is wild (gear to 3", not 1.5"!) and the knobby pitch 6 is an all-time classic. Calling P7 a horrow-show death flake extravanganza is a bit of an injustice, too. It's cleaned up pretty well, and any 5.10 climber should have no problem avoiding the few loose blocks at the top of the 5.7 pitch. Ideally, they should be trundled when no one is at the base (wanted to topple them today, but a party was racking up for Ghostrider, alas).

One can also rappel down Ghostrider from the top of P8. It's a cleaner section of rock with less snags and easier pulls.