No Country For Old Men  5.10 A0

192 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.10 A0 [details] FA:  Sean Cobourn and Eddie Medina June, 2008 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Sean Cobourn on Jun 8, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Temporarily closed. 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Left of pitch 2 of Jacobbear, climb the left facing corner to the roof. Pull around left under the roof to an airy perch below another roof split by twin fat cracks. Pull this roof (crux) and climb the face above to a pair of rings. Two ropes needed for getting down and helpful for getting up due to rope drag issues.

Location 

Left of Black Bear Buttress is a 50 yard stroll to a smaller, scruffy looking cliff. At the first wall before heading down to the base of it, seek a vertical wall covered with incut holds and 2 bolts. This is the first pitch of Jacobbear. Climb this to a spacious ledge and a nice horizontal tree to bealay from. The nearest corner up to a small roof is pitch 2 of Jacobbear. Left of this is an obvious left facing corner capped by a roof. This is the route.

Protection 

Thin stuff for first half, big and small for second half. Only fixed gear is the anchors on top. Double ropes recommended.