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Tradistan Tower
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Better Lucky Than Good T 
Da Cherry on Top! T 
No Cherry For Old Men T 
No Country For Old Men T 
Nuggernaut T 
Thundercats are Go! T 

No Cherry For Old Men 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 750', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ED, JSM
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 404
Submitted By: eDixon on Jul 9, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3.

Description 

The route starts in the same dihedral as for Nuggernaut, then it moves out right and follows a series of cracks and corners to the top of Tradistan Tower. The rock quality and protection are surprisingly good. All belays are at good comfortable ledges. It is a nice, moderate outing with an adventurous feel and great views. Pitch lengths, ratings, and details are described the best as I can remember.

P1: Start up the same left-facing dihedral as for Nuggernaut and climb it for about 75' to a belay at a tree out right on a large ledge (~75', 5.8).

P2: Scramble up and right over a few loose blocks and climb a small corner. At the corner's top, traverse right passing under a ^ shaped roof, and do an exposed step right to a ledge and belay (~75', 5.7).

P3: Climb the face, pull a small bulge, and continue into a small corner that leads to a large ledge with a tree (~75', 5.7).

P4: Climb nondescript terrain following cracks and corners to the next large ledge with a tree (~150', 5.6).

P5: Continue up more cracks and corners to the next large ledge and belay below a large tree in a corner with a chockstone above (~175', 5.6).

P6: Climb the corner/groove past the tree and under the chockstone. Continue up and right on easy ledges (some loose blocks through here), and belay at a ledge (~175', 5.6).

P7: Move the belay left, to the base of a right-facing corner. Climb the fist to finger-sized corner to the summit (~50', 5.7).

Descent: 5 rappels to get down. Find the summit cairn and look for another cairn down SE-ish and a semi-hidden bolted anchor. (1) Do a single rope rappel (15m) to a tree with slings. (2) Do a double rope rappel (61m) to another tree with slings. (3) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to a bolt/fixed nut anchor. (4) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to two bolts on a large ledge. (5) Do a double rope rappel (50m) to the base of Nuggernaut.


Location 

Follow the approach trail to the base. Start in the same dihedral as for Nuggernaut.


Protection 

(2) green Alien - #3 Camalot
(1) set of Stoppers
(2) 60m ropes.



Photos of No Cherry For Old Men Slideshow Add Photo
The obvious dihedral of Nuggernaut and approximate line of route. It goes out of view near the top.
BETA PHOTO: The obvious dihedral of Nuggernaut and approximate...
Pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2.
Pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3.
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