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Tradistan Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better Lucky Than Good T 
Da Cherry on Top! T 
No Cherry For Old Men T 
No Country For Old Men T 
Nuggernaut T 
Thundercats are Go! T 

No Cherry For Old Men 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 750', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ED, JSM
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 431
Submitted By: eDixon on Jul 9, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3.

Description 

The route starts in the same dihedral as for Nuggernaut, then it moves out right and follows a series of cracks and corners to the top of Tradistan Tower. The rock quality and protection are surprisingly good. All belays are at good comfortable ledges. It is a nice, moderate outing with an adventurous feel and great views. Pitch lengths, ratings, and details are described the best as I can remember.

P1: Start up the same left-facing dihedral as for Nuggernaut and climb it for about 75' to a belay at a tree out right on a large ledge (~75', 5.8).

P2: Scramble up and right over a few loose blocks and climb a small corner. At the corner's top, traverse right passing under a ^ shaped roof, and do an exposed step right to a ledge and belay (~75', 5.7).

P3: Climb the face, pull a small bulge, and continue into a small corner that leads to a large ledge with a tree (~75', 5.7).

P4: Climb nondescript terrain following cracks and corners to the next large ledge with a tree (~150', 5.6).

P5: Continue up more cracks and corners to the next large ledge and belay below a large tree in a corner with a chockstone above (~175', 5.6).

P6: Climb the corner/groove past the tree and under the chockstone. Continue up and right on easy ledges (some loose blocks through here), and belay at a ledge (~175', 5.6).

P7: Move the belay left, to the base of a right-facing corner. Climb the fist to finger-sized corner to the summit (~50', 5.7).

Descent: 5 rappels to get down. Find the summit cairn and look for another cairn down SE-ish and a semi-hidden bolted anchor. (1) Do a single rope rappel (15m) to a tree with slings. (2) Do a double rope rappel (61m) to another tree with slings. (3) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to a bolt/fixed nut anchor. (4) Do a double rope rappel (45m) to two bolts on a large ledge. (5) Do a double rope rappel (50m) to the base of Nuggernaut.

Location 

Follow the approach trail to the base. Start in the same dihedral as for Nuggernaut.

Protection 

(2) green Alien - #3 Camalot
(1) set of Stoppers
(2) 60m ropes.


Photos of No Cherry For Old Men Slideshow Add Photo
The obvious dihedral of Nuggernaut and approximate...
BETA PHOTO: The obvious dihedral of Nuggernaut and approximate...
Pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2.
Pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3.

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