No Call No Show
|Type: ||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 20 pitches, 3500', Grade V|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b WI5 M6 [details]|
|FA: ||John Kelley / Josh Varney|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||September through March|
|Page Views: ||582|
|Submitted By: ||Johnkelley on Dec 25, 2012|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
The first pitch
Photo Josh Varney
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Thin steep ice and mixed climbing lead to the top of the line which ends about 20 feet away from the summit. It took us around 50 hours round trip from a camp at the boulder bivi below the Icicle Glacier. We bivied once on route. See the 2012 AAJ for more info.
The route starts about half way up the North/Barranow Couloir. It's the smear to the right just after the crux on the North/Barranow Couloir.
Cams, stoppers, pins, and a few ice screws.