This route is located on Nautilus' "backside", just left of Ted's Trot and 40 feet right of Hairlip. This worthwhile route starts out as a wide layback, rounds a corner to a no hands bivy, and then gets down to business.
Good hand jams with interesting footwork take you to the big pod, which is better than it looks. Get good gear in and then do the crux. By this time, I was experiencing the route's namesake. But I seem to breath this hard on most Vedawoo routes.
Small assortment of nuts and cams from 3/4" to #5 Camalot. Multiples for hands. Chain anchor.
Sure I was tired but I got my ass handed to me on this one. I feel it to be harder than most of the other 11's at the Nautilus (most of which I have redpointed). Maybe I am suffering from a case of the wimpy's though. It is a great climb, tape then tape again and finally tape some more, you only need it for the last 5 feet.
Short and stout. This is one unitimidating route that may catch you by surprise. The crux is short, like two moves, but really tough. Very fun and worth the effort. I personally would not bother to bring anything bigger than a #3 cam. Also there are some really good shakeout holds in the pod. Use them wisely. You will be happy you did. Have fun.
Beautiful and fun moving. Do it at the end of the day and gawk at the gorgeous lichen all around it. Not as bad as some people here are making it out to be. One of the early lines here put up using Friends.
"This is one unitimidating route that may catch you by surprise."
Funny Story: A guy I know came to Vedauwoo knowing it's reputation for sandbags, lets call him Micah. Micah cruised this thing, reaching up to the final handjams about two feet above the pod, and cut his feet loose, hanging by one hand. He then began making monkey noises and outrageous claims that Vedauwoo 5.11's, or at least this one, were soft. After he was done making an idiot out of himself he put his feet back on and went to pull the next move, and he got shut the f&*% down, eventually falling off. I wasn't there, but when the story was recounted to me I laughed so hard I nearly died. To his credit, Micah has put down many a 5.11 crack and many a 5.12 sport climb, even a few 13's.
By Carolina From: Farmington, nc Nov 8, 2010 rating: 5.106b20VII-19E2 5b
Great climb. A must do in late afternoon when the suns shinning on it. A bit easier to me then other 11s around the Woo.