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This is the first crack to the right of the Johnny Roskelly
Arete. Start up a wide, vertical, chimney-type crack, move up easier terrain, and then up the steeper and smaller crack. There are fun moves low, in the middle, and high.
To descend walk Northeast to the first big gully.
Gear to 2" and some RPs. Use small to medium cams for the anchor and belay from the top.
Alternatively, set a directional piece for your 2nd and use the Johnny Roskelly
anchor bolts (use a long sling on the directional to prevent rope abrasion).
Looking down from about halfway up.
By Doug Redosh
Apr 6, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crux move is halfway up, where the wall bulges a little. For me, the footholds on the left wall petered out, but the handhold that was right in front of your face when you start this sequence, functions nicely.
By Jay Eggleston
Mar 19, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I think this is 5.6 even though a lot of people call it 5.7. Everywhere it looks difficult small edges can be found. I did not place any RPs, but small cams were good to have.