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Upper Broadway
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Unsorted Routes:

Nip and Tuck 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richardson, Perch, & Laeger - 1974
Page Views: 1,168
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

The route begins at the far right end of the Broadway Ledge. Climb up from the right side of a block and follow incipient cracks up and left through bulging rock.

Protection 

Standard rack, extra small gear.


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By Kirby
From: DC
Jun 8, 2015

This route is mother flippin awesome. Thin, funky, awesome holds, balance-y, technical, and varied. Small but good gear and very safe. You can get all the way to the bolts on top of High Test with a 70 m and lower with rope to spare. Tough at the start, then continuous until you hit the roof, where it eases up quite a lot.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Jul 10, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Agree with Kirby. Great, sustained route. Probably nothing larger than a #1 C4 needed. After the roof you can kinda wander over to the High Test bolts on some licheny, but OK rock. Wasps have been known to sometimes be a nuisance on this in the summer.
By tbateman
Dec 7, 2015

Continuing to the high test anchors is a good idea. I recently arrived at the slung block/flake at the top of the route and found old slings that were cut (for good reason). I was planning to rap the route and clean the gear so I wanted to use this anchor rather than traverse over to the high test anchors. After slinging the block/flake with new webbing I bounce tested it before going off belay. The bounce test resulted in a sketchy groaning noise from the rock! I unslung my webbing and was happy to traverse to high test and rap off those bomber bolts!

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