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Nip and Tuck

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Antagonism 
ArÍte 
Bock! 
Boiling Point 
Caddis/Argus 
Capital Punishment 
Constrictor 
Dan-D-Line 
Doc's Route 
Ebb Tide 
Finger Crack 
Gyro Captain 
Hare Balls 
Heart Throb 
Hypotenuse 
Left-angling Crack 
Lethal Dose 
Mr. Spiffy 
Night Train 
Old Dihedral 
Spread Eages Dhare 
Surprising Slab 

Nip and Tuck 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,650'
Location: 39.9871, -105.4371 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 29,581
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Area
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BETA PHOTO
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a good rock with variety. It has cracks, to aretes, to sheer faces. On a corner it is sheltered from the winds and car noise is at a minimum. The base is very belayer-friendly - the warm sun basks the base in sun for a long time, and there is a soft clearing around. It appears, though, that this rock does not see as much traffic as some of the rocks closer to Boulder - lichen abounds on the rock. TR: The first three routes on Nip can be toproped via a scramble to the W. side of the rock and a hairy traverse out onto a ledge. Ebb Tide is best setup right above the climb in a wide crack. The Night Train is most directly setup out on the ledge using a short vertical crack and a horizontal crack at head level for gear placement. For Heart Throb, you can use the same anchor as Night Train, but use a bolt above the roof as a directional. Bring some long slings also (about 10-15ft.) Between Nip and Tuck is a gully with access to the left and right.

L->R these appear to be:

A. Ebb Tide, 10, 1p, gear.
B1. Night Train, 9+, 1p, gear or TR.
B2. Heart Throb, 10, 1p, bolt & gear.
C. Lethal Dose, 10, 1p, 100', gear.
D. Small Dose?, 12-, 1p, gear.
E. Beguiled?, 10, 1p, gear.
F. Borrowed Time?, 10, 1p, gear.
G1. Left-Angling Crack, 9-, 1p, gear.
G2. Doc's Route, 7, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
H. Bock!, 5.7 PG-13, 50', gear.
I. Arete, 10+, 1p, 50', bolts.
J Antagonism, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
K. Finger Crack, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
L. Surprising Slab, 8, 1p, gear.
M. Old Dihedral, 5, 1p, 65', gear.
N. Hare Balls, 7, 1p, gear.
O. Dan-D-Line, 6, 1p, gear.
P. Spread Eagles Dhare, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
Q. Constrictor, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
R. Hypotenuse, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
S. Boiling Point, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
T. Argus, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
U. Gyro Captain, 12, 1p, bolts.
V. Rob's Start Direct?, 13+, 1p, bolts.
W. Mr. Spiffy, 13-, 1p, bolts.
X. Capital Punishment, A2 or C2, 1p, gear.


Getting There 

It's 10.5 miles from the start of the canyon, on the right side in the middle of a turn to the right. Parking is limited directly underneath, but there is parking further along.


22 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',3],['5.8',1],['5.9',7],['5.10',4],['5.11',0],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Nip and Tuck:
Finger Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Boiling Point   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
ArÍte   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Antagonism   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Nip and Tuck

Featured Route For Nip and Tuck
Lucy C. leading the Old Dihedral.

Old Dihedral 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a  CO : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck
This route ascends the prominent dihedral. It is pretty easy; 5.5/5.6. Climb it; it is fun. This could be an easy solo if desired....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Nip and Tuck Slideshow Add Photo
Chris Jones @Tuck working on Mr. Spiffy circa 1980.
Chris Jones @Tuck working on Mr. Spiffy circa 1980...
Comments on Nip and Tuck Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim Cormier
Jul 25, 2001

This is one of the best areas for top roping with groups, plenty of routes, plentiful anchors, easy approach, and plenty of parking. This is also a great spot to get students comfortable with rappelling, as the start is straight forward. PLEASE try to keep noise, trash and visibility in control, as this area has had access issues a few years ago, and I believe it is actually private property.

By Matt Rutledge
Jul 17, 2002

I do agree this is a pretty good area for small group climbing. However, please be thoughtful of those around you. A group of four probably doesn't need to set up four ropes on the same rock.

By Steve Kemler
Aug 4, 2002

The fact that this route is so popular with guides and groups almost caused disaster this weekend. Hiding from some much needed rain inside our car, my partner and I watched as a whole family was almost hit trying to cross the road. These routes are located at a bend in the canyon, so when crossing there is not much visibility. Please, walk the 100 feet so that you are on one side of the bend or the other and can see at least one direction. Or better yet, park at one of the eight or so spaces on the same side of the road as the crag. If those are all filled, chances are that it is too crowded to be much fun anyways.

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 31, 2003

Tuck's large dihedral (with topropes on either side, just to the east of Nip)...I cannot remember the name of those. The top anchors consist of two bolts with a chain connecting them. Not sure why the anchors were done this way. Use caution and clip both bolts or at least two separate links of the chain...just for the sake of redundancy. Anyone with a bolt cutter could easily improve these anchors by separating the chains and eliminating the ability for someone to throw a rope over the chain. I don't think "rope over chain" is a generally accepted top anchor and it creates single point of failure.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2004

Beware of climbing here.

My vehicle was broken into (within 15 minutes of parking it) and everything was stolen - radio, wallet and wedding band.

My recommendation is to park where you can see your vehicle even though it's tough to get back onto the road.

This just happened on Thursday 6/24/04.

If you passed on this date around 5:45 and saw someone walking up the road with a stick in his hand, or a blue station wagon, please let me know. You can email me at cory_jakobsen@hotmail.com. Thanks.

By Matt Novinger
From: Erie, CO
May 3, 2011

Admins: Hypotenuse should be listed as a TR as well as trad in the L to R listing above.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 4, 2011

I don't understand why? Anything can be TR'd, but this is a trad lead.

By David Reuille
From: Denver, CO
May 12, 2013

Anyone know what the dihedral left of Dan-D-Lion is? I would guess 5.4-5.5 trad.