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Unnamed blocky corner to hands splitter 

Ninja Bedwetter 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 873
Submitted By: Ed L on Apr 29, 2010
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Description 

Easy fingers with feet to some runout face, bumping a #4, to a thin hands splitter which rolls over into a thinner hands corner up into a closed book, some more fingers, a stemmy roof and a tips and less than tips finish. Most excellent.


Location 

Between Top Sirloin and Sesh One Cooking. Obvious splitter through some roofs. Uber-classic.


Protection 

Solid banditos route. Bloom suggestion is adequate with the #4 camalot protecting the runout face section below the crux and a couple of blue metolius for the last 10 feet. (5) 1.5", and depending upon how the first 30 feet is protected between (3-5) .4 BD's and (3-5) .3 BD's. Throw in (3) #1 BD's, a couple of 1" pieces and a Gold for a nice pod up below the final roof.



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By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 23, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

This is hands down one of my favorite climbs at the creek. Long, varied, and interesting. That changing corners steep bit is tough! I'm pretty sure red camalots are over stuffed there, greens do better. Save a couple of blue metolious for the top.