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The Chapel Wall
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Berlin Wall S 
Chockblock Chimney T 
Controlled Burn T 
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Gold Dust T 
Great Escape, The S 
Heathenistic Pursuit T 
Lighten Up S 
Max Deviator S 
Mongoloid S 
New Wave S 
Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade S 

Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Andrew Stevens, Dan McDevitt, early 1990s
Season: Summer
Page Views: 708
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Jan 6, 2012

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This climb ascends a dull arete on the far left side of Chapel Wall. Climb up good edges passing well placed bolts. The difficulty increases at the halfway point, but is relatively soft for the .12c grade.


Park at the Chapel and walk toward the cliff. Follow the trail to Bridalveil Falls for 50 yards or so. Take an obvious footpath to the left when the cliff almost reaches the trail. When you reach the cliff, follow the trail left passing Heathenistic Pursuit and the large fallen chuck of granite that has formed its own pinnacle. The path diminishes here but continue left (east) past a rock fall section and up a sandy slope. Ninety-six begins up an arete just before a left (east) facing corner with a bolted crack.


Seven quickdraws

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By Eric Gabel
Oct 25, 2012

I believe "96 degrees in the shade" goes up the steep face right of the corner called "bush fire" 5.10c (the bolts have been removed) and left of the arete that you climbed. There are 2 lines on the arete, one on the left and one on the right. The one on the right is called "pink panther" 5.11b. Don't know what the left one is - Eric Gabel
By Vlad S
5 days ago

The bolts on this route are a good candidate for replacement. 7 out of 8 of them are rusty spinning 5/16" splitshafts. 4th bolt protecting the 1st crux is the worst. It looked like both routes that Eric refers to: left and right of the arete aren't really worth getting on. The left one is supposedly a 13+ undone project. I tried the one right of the arete and it's definitely not 11b, closer to 5.12. I aided past the crux only to discover that the upper 1/3 of the route has an inch-thick layer of lichen covering the entire face. I have a feeling "Pink Panther" is the 2nd route right of the arete. It's the other REALLY good one that that's worth getting on and felt about 11c! Does that match the other people's experience? Some of the info provided in the Supertopo "sport climbs" guidebook makes absolutely no freaking sense.

So the overall order of routes in this area is:
"Home-Boys" 11b - left of the corner. Completely mossed over.
"Fly-Girls" 11a - the bolted crack in the corner left of 96 degrees
"96 Degrees in the Shade" 12c - obvious heavily chalked overhanging face
Unknown - undone 13+ left side of arete, 4 bolts going to 96 degree anchor
Unknown - hard, on the right side of the arete, quick link on the 4th bolt, heavily lichened upper 1/3
"Pink Panther"? 11b - another obvious line starting 5 feet right of the arete
Not sure - bolted line going to the same anchor as PP. Either "Mr. Pinkeyes" 11d or "Rock Shock" 12b
"Exploited" 11b - dirty finger crack going to a manchor with slings

Anyone know the lowdown on these?
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