|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||Andrew Stevens, Dan McDevitt, early 1990s|
|Submitted By:||Osprey Overhang on Jan 6, 2012|
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|Comments on Ninety-six Degrees in the Shade||Add Comment|
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By Eric Gabel
Oct 25, 2012
|I believe "96 degrees in the shade" goes up the steep face right of the corner called "bush fire" 5.10c (the bolts have been removed) and left of the arete that you climbed. There are 2 lines on the arete, one on the left and one on the right. The one on the right is called "pink panther" 5.11b. Don't know what the left one is - Eric Gabel|
By Vlad S
Oct 5, 2015
The bolts on this route are a good candidate for replacement. 7 out of 8 of them are rusty spinning 5/16" splitshafts. 4th bolt protecting the 1st crux is the worst. It looked like both routes that Eric refers to: left and right of the arete aren't really worth getting on. The left one is supposedly a 13+ undone project. I tried the one right of the arete and it's definitely not 11b, closer to 5.12. I aided past the crux only to discover that the upper 1/3 of the route has an inch-thick layer of lichen covering the entire face. I have a feeling "Pink Panther" is the 2nd route right of the arete. It's the other REALLY good one that that's worth getting on and felt about 11c! Does that match the other people's experience? Some of the info provided in the Supertopo "sport climbs" guidebook makes absolutely no freaking sense.
So the overall order of routes in this area is:
"Home-Boys" 11b - left of the corner. Completely mossed over.
"Fly-Girls" 11a - the bolted crack in the corner left of 96 degrees
"96 Degrees in the Shade" 12c - obvious heavily chalked overhanging face
Unknown - undone 13+ left side of arete, 4 bolts going to 96 degree anchor
Unknown - hard, on the right side of the arete, quick link on the 4th bolt, heavily lichened upper 1/3. May be "Mr. Pinkeyes" 11d
"Pink Panther"? 11b - another obvious line starting 5 feet right of the arete. Excellent climbing!
Not sure - bolted line going to the same anchor as PP. May be "Rock Shock" 12b
"Exploited" 11b - dirty finger crack going to a manchor with slings
Anyone know the lowdown on these?