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The Balcony
Routes Sorted
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Dr. Evil S 
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Mini Me S 
Mister Bigglesworth S 
Nine Lives S 
Rodent Outhouse S 
Sharks With Friggin' Laser Beams S 

Nine Lives 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rich Strang, Andy Albosta, Alex Scott (Oct. 2010)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 703
Submitted By: Rstrang on Mar 9, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Allison pulling through the crux section of Nine L...

Description 

At least as hard and as good as Jug-or Naut - seemed a bit more continuous than the sister routes though. The route character is kind of a baby Rad Wall route- Big Holds, Big Moves and lots of them (though not as many moves as Rad Wall).


Location 

Starts just right of Jug-or-Naut and angles right to the arete.


Protection 

Seven bolts to anchors (chains with lowering biners)



Photos of Nine Lives Slideshow Add Photo
Alex Starting Nine Lives during the first ascent
Alex Starting Nine Lives during the first ascent
"On The Arete" nearing the top of Nine Lives
"On The Arete" nearing the top of Nine Lives
Comments on Nine Lives Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rstrang
From: Santa Fe, NM
May 31, 2011

Some people I've talked to have been enjoying this one. It could still use a little cleaning on the upper part. I only cleaned the left face thinking the route would stay there but the line ended up using some holds around the right arete. Watch out for some of these - I'll try to do some more cleaning up there one of these days.
Enjoy
RS

By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Awesome route. many thanks! My buddy whipped when a cantaloupe sized cobble pulled out. Be careful as there are a couple more loose rocks.

By brianLA
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Great route, lots of fun, but equal amounts of loose rock. easier than cobble wobble

By bking7
May 31, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Awesomely fun route. There does seem to be a number of loose pieces higher up (after 4th bolt). We didn't come across any in early march but knocked off a number of fist sized pieces yesterday. One large skull sized hold feels loose and is marked by X.

Very sweet route, belay wearing a helmet.

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Harder than both Jug-or-Naut and Tree Swing IMO. Perhaps no single move on Nine lives is quite as hard as the crux move on either of those two climbs, but Nine Lives is way more sustained.

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

BTW, once it cleans up a bit, I think this will be the best route on the wall.