Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Bouldering
Black Diamond Demon Backpack - 1953-2197cu in

$129.95 20% off

$103.96

at Backcountry

   more...
Cmi Micro Hauler - Single

$146.80 25% off

$110.10

at CampSaver

34    more...
Petzl Eperons Spur X2 For DartDartwin

$105.00 25% off

$78.75

at Backcountry

   more...
TaylorMade RocketBallz Fairway Wood

$249.99 28% off

$179.99

at AlsSports

36    more...
Wild Country Astro Quickdraw - 5 Pack

$72.95 20% off

$58.36

at Backcountry

22    more...
Blue Water Canyon Dual Sheath Rope - 9.2mm

$269.95 25% off

$202.46

at Backcountry

3    more...
Sugoi RPM Bike Shorts - Women's

$74.99 20% off

$59.99

at AlsSports

   more...
Edelweiss Element II Rope 10.2mm

$149.99 30% off

$104.99

at AlsSports

1    more...
Patagonia Men's Micro Puff Jacket

$149.00 50% off

$74.50

at Patagonia

56    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals
Select Route:
A River Runs Through It 
Avalanche 
Balls and Chains 
Between the Tears 
Big Bird (aka Fountaine Bleau boulders) 
Bloody Fingers R Us 
Boobie Direct 
Butt Crystal 
Cave Direct 
Cobbler's Delight 
Crudely Painted Arete 
Crudely Painted Not So Funny Folk Art 
Dingus 
Distance Overhang 
Distance Overhang Sit Start 
Dr. Love's Rock 
Dry Ice 
Dry Spell 
Fountain Lip Traverse 
From Concentrate 
Gerbil in a Chute 
Gold Digger 
Hoagie in Heaven 
Intense Incense 
Isotropical 
Lady Luck 
Levitate 
Little Brown Jug Wall 
Little Devil 
Mono-opoly 
Morning Wood Boulder 
Nappy Rooted 
New & Corporate Playground, The 
Nine Lives Arete 
No Approach Boulder 
North Sentry Crack 
Orange South Face 
Penthouse, The 
Phallic Rock 
Phallic Rock West Face 
Phillip's Problem 
Plate South Face R. 
Pleasure By Ambush 
Pop Rocks 
Prowerful Arete 
Punani 
Raise Your Rifles 
Rocket Ship 
Rounded Prow 
Slab Master 
Snow Shoes 
Sometimes Wet 
Spaceman Spiff 
Suckerpunch 
Super Mario 
Surfer's Paradise 
Trailside Boulder 
Treehugger 
Troll 
Unknown- Slab Route 
Up Staged 
V0 
Wacky Waving Inflatable Flailing Armed Tube Man 
West Face Crack 
World's Slopiest Boulder - NW Corner, The 
World's Slopiest Boulder- South Face, The 

Nine Lives Arete 

V5

   
2,703 page views
Good page?   

Type: Boulder
Consensus: V4 [details]
FA: Hanson, Sills, late '80s
Submitted By: Andy Librande on Nov 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Nine Lives Boulder with Rambo. 7/26/2009.

http:/...


Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Located on the seclusive Nine Lives boulder, the arete offers a great problem in an awesome location.

Beta: Left hand in a tiny pocket with a drop-knee starts the problem. Move through sharp pockets to a large left-hand pinch. Put-up a high right heel-hook and then reach for a decent slot (heel-hook is key for the static move, otherwise just launching to the slot is a ton of fun). Reach-up past the side-pull to a crimp, find feet and throw to the back of the bulge to find something to hold onto; work your toes-up and pull the mantle. Now you have another 20 feet of easy and exciting slab climbing.


Location 

To find this boulder ignore the directions in the Colorado Bouldering guidebook. Approach is actually decent(compared to a lot of the other bouldering in the wood).

Park in the “West Trail Head” parking lot at the North Entrance (the one just south of the port-o-potty area) and take the trail that heads towards the river/mud-cliffs. This trail goes through some switch-backs and right after that you come to a fork in the road. Take the path on your right (heading south) for only 15-20 feet and you will notice a ravine heading towards the river. Follow this ravine down to the river and be mindful of the path you take as the erosion in this area is high. On the otherside of the river there is a fallen pine tree that is where you will climb out of the riverbed at onto flat ground. 50 yards past the tree the Nine Lives Boulder sits in all of its glory. Of course you can always take the bush-whacking route and start at the falls area river crossing and head north for a while staying near the cliffs.


Protection 

Landing is flat, however the crux is high. Several pads are useful and a spotter once you get to the crux area.



Photos of Nine Lives Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Chris pulling over the crux on the Nine Lives Boulder. <br /> <br />Photo by Andy.

Chris pulling over the crux on the Nine Lives Boul...

Chris at the slot right below the crux.

Chris at the slot right below the crux.

Andy working the arete.

Andy working the arete.

Stephen at the top of the crux trying to get over the bulge.

Stephen at the top of the crux trying to get over ...


Comments on Nine Lives Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By GeoffElson
Jan 12, 2009
rating: V3

This is a stunning problem with fun movement but nowhere near V5. I cringe at my own grade squabbling, but compared to V5s in the rest of the Front Range it is considerably easier. As the submitter stated above be vary mindful of erosion and human impact while finding this boulder, it is a gem but really hard to locate. It might be best to have someone who has been to the problem before show you the way to minimize the disturbance.

By Andy Librande
From: Denver, CO
Oct 4, 2009

The original rating in Colorado Bouldering had it at V5 which is what I inputted for the problem here. However it appears that it is more in the V3/4 range from everyone I have ever been with and I think the original rating may be related to not knowing about some of the hidden beta on the climb.

There is also another real nice variation to the climb that starts the same but instead of going to the slot with your right hand there is a hidden right side-pull just below the slot. You then go to the slot with your left hand and rock around to the right-side of the boulder.

By Daniel Hansen
Sep 9, 2011

As soon as you unlock the crux and figure out how many hidden holds there are, you'll agree with the other reviewers that this should be a 4 - until then enjoy the problem solving. Sharp but sweet movement!!

By Austin Cooner
Oct 21, 2012
rating: V4

Really good directions. I felt the crux was V5ish (for me).

Edit. Coming back with the right beta and getting on it fresh, it's definitely a 4