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 ADVANCED
Trilogy Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Along Came a Strider 
Frodo Lives 
Gollum's Column 
Lord of the Slings 
My Precious 
Nine in Black 
Ranger Walk 
Return of the King 
Shadow and Flame 
Shards of Narsil 
Unknown name 
Wizardly Way 

Nine in Black 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim and Christian Knight
Page Views: 751
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 3, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Trilogy Buttress
Lower West Face
3 The Road to Riv...

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Description 

Fun climbing on fairly solid quartzite, with the occasional loose hold and plenty of loose, smaller rocks to keep your belayer paying attention.

Start up on positive edges, with a few small ledges on the way. Surmount a small roof (which looks harder from the ground than it turns out to be) and find yourself at a broken crack. The last bolt is to your right. Clip it and either climb up next to the crack or traverse right bit, climb over the bolt and up to the anchors.

This is a great first pitch for continuing up to the upper face of Trilogy Buttress, or this is a reasonable route in its own right.


Location 

After reaching the lower, south facing buttress containing the original, 5.6 first pitch of Lord of the Slings, continue around to the left looking for a bolted line on the wall to your right. On a face that faces more south than west the first bolt of this route is visible about 15 feet up and has a rusty patina.


Protection 

9 bolts, hangers-and-rings anchor.



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By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 13, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This is the better way to go to start the rest of the Trilogy lines.