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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Richard Wright, 1998
Page Views: 547
Submitted By: Michael Walker on Oct 30, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Midway up.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>


Looking for a moderate to warm up on? Keep looking.

Leftmost on the wall, up a loose, unpleasant gully, a five bolt line staggers its way up the discontinuous face. Good incut holds can be fold throughout the climb, but a sense of distrust is felt when climbing, especially past one large moveable rock unfortunetly right smack in the best line.

And did I mention the belay? Maybe from the very base of the gully is best - but then you can't see the climber; so up high in the gully past a scramble - yet then you almost belay above the climber. Hmmm. This climb is best climbed to complete the tic list or to enjoy a little space from the crowds around the corner. Then again the views of the Indian Peaks are best on this westerly face - yet so is the wind greatest here....ah, no matter. Sample with discretion.


5 qds to 2 cold shuts

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By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

I can't believe this is a 5.8. My guidebook says it is 5.5 and it felt 5.6 to me at the most. I rather enjoyed it.