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Karen Rock
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Nightmare 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: TR, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 1,385
Submitted By: Rick Shull on Oct 14, 2007
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Reaching through the blocky bulge on Nightmare, 12...

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Description 

Nightmare begins by climbing the first half of Dream Theme. Where Dream Theme traverses right, after the large hueco, continue up and left through a blocky bulge to a horn of lighter colored rock. Make a difficult cross through to a series of large but sloping holds, make a couple of moves on these and then continue straight up to the anchor.


Location 

Right side of Karen Rock. Same start as Dream Theme.


Protection 

3 bolt anchor.



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Making the cross through, just before easier ground. Nightmare, 12a.
Making the cross through, just before easier groun...
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By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Nov 12, 2008
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

When Richard Ludwig, Tim Wilhelmi and I TR'd this in the late 80's we called the line from sand to anchors Dream Theme. We messed around with all the variations around it and it was Tim who first unlocked the sequence. I don't think we ever thought we were climbing a 5.12 route, however...But it's a total pump, that's for sure!

By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

I also recall a few of us really wanting to bolt this line, including me, but others insisted it was better off as a TR. Then upon discovering / climbing at Lost Rocks, The Promontory, and Footsteps, we finally left Moonstone alone. But anyway, what are Moonstone Beach regulars / locals saying these days?

By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Aug 11, 2011

Several years ago, Moonstone was going through a new management plan. Local tribal members were trying to get climbing banned and wanted all bolts removed(even TR anchors). Due to other priority issues, climbing was not addressed but most have felt that adding new bolts might affect future access.

By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 3, 2011
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Whoa! Guess those TR bolts are very much appreciated then...