Nightmare Rock Rock Climbing
An east facing cliff close to the road (somewhat noisy) that has a good selection of routes 5.10 and above. Bonus: many of the pitches will stay dry through the first phases of a Squamish rain siege.
Nightmare is on the west side of the road, about 400 meters north of the Murrin parking lot; its large roofs are visible from the road.
Either park in the parking lot (and pay) or, at least during the current state of construction, the paved should directly in front of NR is wide to allow parking directly in front of the cliff.
A trail leaves the road near the south end of the cliff and takes less than five minutes.
Climbing Season For the Squamish area.
Weather station 4.1 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Nightmare Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Nightmare Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Nightmare Rock:
Perspective 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 130'
Morpheus 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 80'
Claim Jumper 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Sentry Box 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Featured Route For Nightmare Rock
Sentry Box 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a North America
: ... : Nightmare Rock
The classic hard finger crack at Murrin. Ascend a steep 10a crack on the face above some blocks and past an intermediate anchor. Traverse to a stance below a right leaning splitter finger crack on the headwall. A short, but thin and technical crux(12a) lies above. Fight on to the chains. Watch for the rope getting stuck in the crack to the left of the mid-height ledge.Do "Sentry Box Direct" for, in my opinion, a better, more sustained version, but beware of the difficult gear placements. There i...[more] Browse More Classics in International
By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Nov 28, 2007
Nightmare is arguably the best single crag for hard cracks in Squamish. Perspective, Sentry Box, Claim Jumper, Hypertension and Big Daddy are but a few....
By Evan Stevens
Jun 9, 2008
Don't be fooled...only the bottom half of 2 or 3 routes stay dry in the rain, not the quality stuff up high!