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Nightingale
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad 1964, FFA: Pat Timson, Pete Doorish |
Page Views: | 767 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Dec 9, 2014 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock
Details
Every year, Midnight Rock and Noontime Rock are seasonally closed for Peregrine falcon nesting, April 1st through approximately July 31st, or or until the young falcons have fledged or FS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. More info at fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…
Description
1st pitch: 11c, thin crack through roof to Volkswagen ledge.The bolts of Yellowbird will be out right where that route skirts the roof. This pitch is dirty, never climbed anymore.
2nd pitch : 5.9, wide cracks left of bolted anchor to the top. This 2nd pitch was very dirty, and I found a rotten block, maybe one of Fred's wood wedges used on the first ascent.
I recently asked Fred what he remembers about this route and Midnight rock. He gave me the forget about it arm wave, "that was 50 years ago, not worth going back to" He was right about it being exactly 50 years ago, but I think it is worth a visit.
2nd pitch : 5.9, wide cracks left of bolted anchor to the top. This 2nd pitch was very dirty, and I found a rotten block, maybe one of Fred's wood wedges used on the first ascent.
I recently asked Fred what he remembers about this route and Midnight rock. He gave me the forget about it arm wave, "that was 50 years ago, not worth going back to" He was right about it being exactly 50 years ago, but I think it is worth a visit.
Location
when you scramble up the exposed brushy ledges from the main trail after crossing the stream you will come to Dead End ledge. A couple of large Fir/ Ponderosa trees here. A diving board with a big pool of water in front of a narrow overhang where this and Yellowbird starts slightly right. There is a deep mossy gully on the left that could be used to access the North Ramp route on the left slab above.
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