Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad 1964, FFA: Pat Timson, Pete Doorish
Page Views: 767 total · 7/month
Shared By: Geoff Georges on Dec 9, 2014
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

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Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Noontime and Midnight Rock DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

1st pitch: 11c, thin crack through roof to Volkswagen ledge.The bolts of Yellowbird will be out right where that route skirts the roof. This pitch is dirty, never climbed anymore.
2nd pitch : 5.9, wide cracks left of bolted anchor to the top. This 2nd pitch was very dirty, and I found a rotten block, maybe one of Fred's wood wedges used on the first ascent.
I recently asked Fred what he remembers about this route and Midnight rock. He gave me the forget about it arm wave, "that was 50 years ago, not worth going back to" He was right about it being exactly 50 years ago, but I think it is worth a visit.

Location Suggest change

when you scramble up the exposed brushy ledges from the main trail after crossing the stream you will come to Dead End ledge. A couple of large Fir/ Ponderosa trees here. A diving board with a big pool of water in front of a narrow overhang where this and Yellowbird starts slightly right. There is a deep mossy gully on the left that could be used to access the North Ramp route on the left slab above.

Protection Suggest change

standard rack to 3", but a #4 would have been nice on the 2nd pitch. 2 bolt/sling anchor on far left end of Volks ledge. I cut the ancient sling off and replaced in 2014.
tree anchors at top.

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